Few things in dining are more tragic than pretension - being pretentious but failing at it being among those more calamitous things.
Nova, a quaint yet bustling gastropub in the Oak Cliff neighborhood of Dallas, accomplishes every feat the pretentious eatery aims to - without being pretentious itself. Located in an area undergoing gentrification, this establishment is, itself, "gentrifying" dishes once considered to be less-than-plebeian fare.
Before getting into the food something must be said about the service.
Nova, in my humble and little-traveled opinion, gets the service as right as it gets the food. It ascends whatever the hospitality norm is for the area and sets a new standard. The Front Of House (FOH) here is peculiar in that the wait staff and management have actually eaten the food, know what's in it, and know how it is prepared. I overheard shocking exchanges between patron and host where questions about menu items were answered intelligently and with confidence.
We were seated by Darren, a manager who didn't come across as being so. He didn't receive us with any patronizing zeal. It was a simple "Welcome to Nova..." accompanied with his name - an authentic and friendly touch.
Our waiter/bartender was Craig, the apparent FOH alpha male. I was impressed at how women seated at the bar followed him with their eyes as he moved between conversations effortlessly - remembering where he left off with every patron. His communication and wait style had that lilt about it that one sees in film noir. He, too, was real about things.
Now, to the food.
We started with the Smoked Salmon Potato Skins. While I didn't take the time to identify the variety of potato, I was surprised to see that the Chef had the temerity to put the salmon on top! And it wasn't grocery store salmon, either. It was not salty, far from mushy, and tasted like fish without being "fishy". The potatoes, whatever their pedigree, were cooked perfectly. I was able to cut into the spuds with the side of my fork and use it to spear some of the mixed baby greens the dish was served with.
"Fried Louisiana Oysters" was our next sampling. I can't tell you how poorly named this dish is. I have a suggestion: name it "Erotic Oysters Cooked in Sex Juice". I don't know how the oysters are sourced, but I can tell you that if they came out of a jar full of slimy, decomposing "liquor", Chef Eric Spigner has done a masterful job at hiding that fact. I asked that they be fried soft, as I am allergic to overcooked seafood - it makes me break out in "I'm never coming back"s.
Next up: Low Country Red Rice and Andouille Sausage. The dish is basically jambalaya but, unlike most contemporary versions of it, was not dominated by tomatoes and an intolerable amount of spicy pepper. It was made with converted rice, but, to its credit, the rice was cooked "al dente" and I found not one broken grain. I wasn't looking for one, though - I'm just sayin'.
Cheese Grits. I have never had two exactly alike, especially at a restaurant. The Palmetto Oro Italiano Cheese Grits with Sweet Onion Fennel Marmalade was, by my findings, perfect. I didn't know what "Oro Italiano" cheese was, so I googled it. I still don't know what it is, but IDGAF. The grits were too damned good for me to waste time laboring over the provenance of its ingredients.
The "Mac & Cheese with Cherrywood Bacon and Asheville Hot Sauce", cooked with Orecchiette pasta, was one of my favorites of the evening, second only to the grits. The pasta was cooked flawlessly. The sauce itself may have had four cheeses in it, for all I know. What I can be certain of is that by the time we got this dish we were stuffed and even after it had gotten cold the sauce was still a SAUCE, and not a clump of cheese separating from whatever oils were present in it. The Asheville hot sauce, drizzled over the top of the dish, gave the zest and tang to it that I didn't even realize was missing. It wasn't until my second or third spoonful that I encountered it and I confess I was eager to taste more of it.
So, that short missive is my take on Nova.
The service is above par.
The food is exemplary.
The ambience is familially "loud".
The doors will see my silhouette again - soon. read more