In Dallas we have very few locally-owned, ultra fine-dining establishments with highly creative chefs, using primarily local ingredients. This is one of them, with Chef Casey LaRue offering a confident and bold point of view on Texas cooking. Sauvage is operating at the highest level. I have to say this is one of the most compelling dining experiences in Dallas.
Sauvage is an experience for diners who enjoy creativity, surprise, and trying foods & combinations that feel unpredictable. It is an immersive, intentional dining experience. The Grand Tasting ($245) is a prix fixe menu in which you are served the chef's full vision. A chef's tasting + chef's counter is my personal favorite way to dine -- so it was perfect for our recent anniversary.
Sauvage is just a few doors down from the entrance of the Statler hotel. The exterior is unassuming; you'd miss it if you didn't know it was there. This restraint feels intentional... the focus here is entirely on the food. It's the first indicator that this restaurant has specifically chosen to be food-forward and not to follow the Dallas trend of big, boisterous, and flashy.
We were greeted by name (!) and seated immediately at one of the 12 counter seats. The seat size and spacing was generous and comfortable for our extended dinner.
The drink menu is curated and perfect - we were especially impressed by the pairing menu ($115). Although pairings interest us, our general feeling on drink pairings is that we'd prefer to leave the "adventure" to the food side of things and drink what we like. However, this pairing menu wasn't your typical wine pairing - it looked wonderful, with a variety of wine, sake, and interesting cocktails. It made us regret driving to the restaurant rather than ridesharing. Throughout the meal we enjoyed single cocktails and champagne, and enjoyed everything we tried.
Food - wow. Each dish was thoughtfully composed. The dishes were inventive without ever feeling chaotic, with many flavor pairings that challenged my palate in a good way. This may sound odd, but I truly felt like I was tasting Texas as I was eating - the wood fire grill paired with local ingredients was expertly melded into something wholly original. I've dined at Michelin restaurants all over the world, including some of the top restaurants, and I can confidently say this restaurant holds its own and firmly believe it belongs in the Michelin conversation.
The most memorable dishes for me were the boar belly, the couscous rustico, and smoked wagyu. Although my personal favorite dish was the foie gras - the technical precision of this dish was out of this world. The immaculate knifework of the beet, the architectural leaf-shaped biscuits, and of course, the famous croissants - all reflected on the technical control of the chefs here. This dish reminded me of a similar one Chef Casey served at former restaurant Carte Blanche.
Moving on to dessert - typically my least favorite course. We received three separate dessert dishes, each one equally refined. I loved the Zeppole, delightful fried dough, flavored with local honeycomb (I thought it was cool to see the raw honeycomb frame from my seat!). Alongside dessert, they served a small cup of local coffee and a housemade biscotti, which was a classy touch.
One issue we have encountered with other tasting menus has been an early peak or a highlight so amazing, the rest of the menu dimmed in comparison. Not true here - the level of execution and flavors never wavered throughout the entire meal. From the Prima Voce course all the way to the biscotti - each and every dish was on the same excellent level.
If you've ever heard that tasting menus leave you hungry, I can say with authority that is not the case here. The portions are generous for a tasting menu, so much so that I couldn't finish some of the incredible dishes, something that has never happened to me during a tasting experience. I regret having breakfast that day. Come hungry! The food is incredible and you'll want to eat every bite.
If you've never had a chef's counter experience, there really isn't anything like it, especially at this level of cooking. The chefs take great care in producing each dish, and watching it happen is art in motion. The confidence in the kitchen was evident. Having the "fourth wall" broken down between table and kitchen is an experience I value and find really special.
When the meal sadly had to come to an end, we were provided with a copy of the menu, to-go cookies for later, and an invitation to a nearby speakeasy.
This is the kind of restaurant that defines a dining city. Dallas should be talking about Sauvage the way it talks about its most celebrated restaurants. It is difficult to understand why this restaurant is not already receiving national recognition. read more