Growing up in Chicagoland, then living most of our adult life in Wisconsin, my wife and I have been looking for a good Italian Beef sandwich in the Los Angeles area for the past five years. Luckily, Portillos delivers on that, but we think we found a far closer alternative..and we weren't even looking!
Sideburns serves poutine, and appeared on my Yelp feed, so we went specifically for that. (I think a lot of things taste just better with brown gravy which is why I love loco-moco so much). The restaurant is so close (located just east of DTLB), but is continuing to be a wet/rainy New Years Eve, so took the car. Parking is a bit of a headache, non-metered street parking that allows overnight so pretty full all the time even though the area was pretty dead...just need to keep looking. You order and pay upfront, and then sit. They will bring the food to you, and then you self-bus. There are a few fast-food type booths. I didn't see any fountain drinks, but there were bottles of Mexican coke and Jarritos in a side refrigerator. We might have been the first customers of the day (they open at 12 and we arrived around 12:40). The plan was to order a Chicago dog and a 'The Works' burger and some poutine, but noticed a handwritten sign advertising a Chicago-style Italian beef sandwich, so had to try that instead of the burger.
The manager on duty was super friendly, and struck up a conversation as he delivered the food (as well as coming back once we were finishing to get what we thought of the meal). He told us the owner really likes midwestern type food, which is why there are things like Chicago dog, Italian beef, beer brats, and cheese curds on the menu. He was super proud of their burgers (which aligns with the reviews here). One of the things I noticed about the menu is how many of the items (except for the burgers) didn't really have complementary items...it's not like you can use the hot dogs for the Chicago dog for other non-hot dog dishes, or use the italian beef for something else. And some of the midwestern specific items are probably hard to source in an affordable manner. Thus some compromises needed to be made.
Italian Beef (Off menu special: $12) - It used a bolillio shaped brioche bread, nicely toasted (different than the Torano italian bread found in Chicago). The beef and gravy tasted exactly as expected (thinking it was already sourced prepared and just reheated)...beef was super thin, and a generous amount of giardiniera topped it. It was a good, satisfying sandwich.
Chicago Dog ($9) - Had all the necessary ingredients down to the neon green relish and celery salt. It did use the same bolillio bread (instead of a poppy seed), and a Nathan all-beef (instead of Vienna). It was definitely dragged through the garden, and delicious (filled me up).
Poutine ($10) - This came out a bit early, right after it had been expertly prepared. It used a generous amount of fresh Wisconsin cheese curds (not the frozen battered deep fried that I've seen others use). Thus, the hot gravy melted the cheese flat, and made it so melty and stringey. The fries were deep fried perfectly, just before it was assembled. It was the perfect amount for the two of us, and we scarfed it down with forks (too messy for fingers and MUST be eaten soon after it is prepared...not good for delivery I would guess). Definitely in the category of 'must-tell-others' right away.
We love how Sideburns serves midwestern food and how it is prepared with a lot of care (instead of just slapping it together), and will need to try their cheeseburger, brats, and deep-fried cheese curds next time. Now if Sideburns or Stache could think about serving Chicago Tavern Thin crust pizza... read more