Ogliastro jumped to front of my to-try list recently when I did a quick search on Yelp for "food" in NYC, and it came up as number 1 (note: no longer the case). Now Ogliastro was already on my radar, but a pizzeria rated that highly that is also very close to my place? I took the next opportunity to check it out. The decor here has very much the steam-punky, dimly lit atmosphere that a lot of newer restaurants are displaying. Our server was new but assisted by a veteran, and they were both good. The place was very warm inside--likely due to the pizza oven--which was a plus considering how freaking cold it's been. Overall I liked the place but wasn't bolled over either.
I got the reverse negroni, which is basically a normal negroni for some odd reason; it was very good regardless. My friend enjoyed her drinks as well. Their beer list is great for a pizzeria, and they had a pint of Founders FBS for only like $6 which is stellar. I got the burrata for my appetizer, and which the portion of burrata itself could've been a bit larger, the frisee, grape tomatoes, pesto and pizza bread that accompanied it was very enjoyable. My friend's spaghetti squash was very good as well, although the proscuitto didn't survive long enough for me to try any.
I got the Vongole e Gamberi pizza (chorizo, clams, shrimp, peppers, garlic, oregano, creme fraiche). While I enjoyed it, it was definitely not a balanced or focused pizza. I normally wouldn't opt for something with so many items on it (the best pizzas usually have at most 4 toppings including cheese and sauce) but this place seemed like experimental, artisanal topping combos was their thing. The main issue was that they named the pie after shrimp and clams, but instead of a seafood focus the flavor profile was more oriented towards the chorizo, peppers and oregano. It also didn't help that peppers were by far the dominant topping. The clams were put on the pie in their shells, which is also annoying but otherwise besides the point; the seafood took a backseat. The creme fraiche was a wise addition to combat the peppery/herby flavors present. The crust was very good but not quite great; it was highlighted much better in the appetizer (even if there was a bit of salt added, a la pizza bianca). My friend got the dragoncello (lamb sausage, artichike puree, grape tomatoes, tarragon, pecorino romano) which looked good but due to its main ingredient being lamb, I didn't care for.
Ogliastro seems like a good addition to the neighborhood and I will likely be back to try more of the menu (maybe something more traditional). However as excited as some may be, lets not get ahead of ourselves. What I tasted was good but not great, let alone best in city worthy. There's always room for it to grow to that but one step at a time. For now just enjoy it as a solid neighborhood option, and I'd be happy to report if there is significant improvement. read more