I've been a fan of Jonathon's since my first visit in 2011, so I was excited to hear Chef Jon had a new project in the works. I've eaten here enough times now to proclaim Kessler Park Eating House the newest addition to my list of favorite spots in Dallas! Bring your appetite though, because just like its sibling restaurant up the street, the portions are huge and the cocktails are strong!
Our first two times eating here were for dinner, and it didn't disappoint. We sampled several items over our visits. The highlights for me included the dueling dips and chips, which had both fresh made potato chips and tortilla chips, served with a hot artichoke dip and a cold French onion dip. These rotate from visit to visit, so you may only get tortilla chips, depending on the dip selection.
For main courses, we've tried the housemade noodles with pork ragout, borscht with pork cheeks, country ham dinner and potato cakes. I'm a fan of the noodles (even reheated later at home). My husband really enjoyed the borscht, even though he doesn't normally eat beets (which, of course are the main ingredient of borscht). When we split the country ham dinner and an order of potato cakes, the ham was tender, juicy and flavorfully seasoned (not just the salt, sugar and smoke so typical of most ham), and was perfectly complemented by the housemade kraut. The potato cakes were delicious and flavorful, and rounded the meal out in a way that took my tastebuds to my German-Polish grandparents' dinner table, or an East German Gästehaus.
Dessert didn't disappoint on either visit, although I'm a bigger fan of the peanut butter pie than the super chocolatey Jon Bars (Hubby prefered the Jon Bars - cue the '80s Reese's PB Cups commercials).
Because we were instantly hooked on dinner, we were also excited about trying the brunch menu. One thing that Jon does better than anybody else is waffles, and the waffles here keep that legacy alive. Your options here are of the sweet variety. Option 1: Coconut Cream Waffle-- it has coconut in the batter, and is topped with coconut cream custard and fresh densely whipped cream. Manna from heaven... Option 2: Sopapilla Waffle -- this waffle is apparently fried so it's crisp on the outside, soft and fluffy on the inside, and coated in cinnamon sugar, served with tequila pecan syrup and vanilla cream. Option 3: off-the-menu-but-suggested-by-our-server Coco-pilla Waffle-- the sopapilla waffle served with a side of coconut cream custard *and* tequila pecan syrup. This was almost too much richness for my tastebuds -- keyword here being *almost*!
We also tried the cheesy grits on our first two brunch visits with great delight. Creamy, rich and flavorful, not soupy and not gelatinous, just right. My husband tried the Roasted Pork Benedict and was quite pleased. He went with shrimp & grits on the second visit and loved it.
For some reason our third brunch visit was a little off. We only recognized a few of the servers, whereas we'd seen pretty much the same employees on every other visit (and in fact, had the same server, Gabriel, for the first four meals). But hey- everybody needs a day off, right?? Our server this time was very nice and fairly attentive, but not as confident or enthusiastic as Gabe. Jon was out front visiting with some patrons and Christine was about, so we didn't expect much difference in quality.
We decided to split the French toast and the Country Ham (we'd been craving more of that ham since that dinner). When our food arrived, it looked pretty good. Upon closer inspection, I noticed the grits I ordered were in a glob, dry enough to keep the form sculpted into them by the serving utensil and cool enough that the cheese on top didn't melt when stirred in. Not up to par with the grits I'd experienced here up to this point. Bummer. The ham, though flavorful, was a little dried out and chewier than our first time ordering it. The gravy helped with the flavor, but it didn't fix the texture. The potatoes were fine, but the eggs had gotten a little rubbery. The cornbread looked mostly normal, but a little dry on the outside. When we sliced into it, the batter was gooey and undercooked. The French Toast was just okay. One slice was pretty dry, whereas the other slice was moist and tasty, like perhaps it had soaked up all of the egg batter before they battered the other slice? The berries and cream were good. Tart, not sweet, although I could have gone for more cream or maybe a side of butter to blend with the lemon preserves.
I tried to come up with excuses for the kitchen in my mind. Perhaps all the rain and humidity we've had is throwing the cooks off? Perhaps the kitchen staff are new and they just aren't ready to work without Jon in the kitchen, directly supervising them? I did notice when Jon came back, activity picked up in the kitchen, so maybe that's it. Everybody has an off day, so hopefully this was just a fluke. So far, the odds are in their favor and we'll definitely be returning! read more