Lucali is one of the last major NYC pizzerias to avoid my grasp. This is due primarily to the hours, as well as my long running intrigue with more off-the-grid places. A few weeks back, my friend and I resolved to rectify this, but then remembered the recent news. Lucali was closed while Mark Iacono recovered and sorted out a mess of a situation in his old neighborhood. Then I remembered that his brother Chris, who took quite awhile getting this place open, finally did actually open. Given the location in southern Park Slope right by Toby's Public House, we decided to check this out instead. We came a bit before 6pm, but they hadn't formally opened and the oven hadn't heated up to proper temperatures yet. After splurging on expensive beer at Eagle Provisions, we came back a half hour later. The place is dark and intimate inside with candles everywhere, a little dim lighting, brick walls, soft Italian-ish music playing, and the huge wood fired oven front and center. Chris Iacono was working the oven, which I appreciate immensely; some many would-be pizzaiolos think it's sufficient to slap their name on a place and then sit back on their asses. Our waiter was a Brooklyn guy, was very friendly and knowledgeable, as well as efficient. Being Park Slope, the place was full of families as well as a few couples and tables of friends. It never had a wait that night, but it did stay pretty full. That is awesome, as this place probably deserves the hype that its brother pizzeria gets.
We got a pizza that was half hot sausage, and half olives and onions (my friend's) choice. It was pretty freaking great, but not at all what I was expecting. I've always heard people talk about Lucali and its smoky-sweet crust, and I imagined it being along the lines of a NY-Naples hybrid pie along the lines of Totonno's, or at least NY-style like Di Fara, but it was neither. It was sort of crisp crust like they serve at places like Joe & Pat's in Staten Island, except with more flavor and more rise. This rise helped it hold up to the toppings, and despite the surprise I thoroughly enjoyed this crust. As for the toppings, they were at the high quality level you could expect. The fresh mozzarella was luscious and milky. The tomato sauce was flavorful if a little subtle. The olive oil used was light and fruity, tying the various elements together. The hot sausage--from Faicco's in the West Village and Dyker Heights--was great as could be expected, and was applied in small crumbles. As a whole the pie didn't strike me as world-beating, but it was pretty addictive.
With a mellow, low-key atmosphere as opposed to its perpetually mobbed relative, it's a wonder why Giuseppina's isn't more popular. I still haven't tried Mark's original place, I have to say his brother makes some damned great pizza. A place that both makes great pizza and is a neighborhood hangout can be rare even in Brooklyn. I even saw a Rockwellian scene where a little girl walked over to the oven to watch Chris make pizza and he showed her how, even giving here something to taste. Above all else, Giuseppina's is genuine--which is even more rare in today's restaurant scene--and in my book that makes it a must go. As for Lucali, well..I'm see them soon. read more