Matt B. and I got dinner at Funke (apparently pronounced "funky," and not like "Tobias Fünke") for my birthday a couple months ago. We went on the Monday of a long weekend, and were able to get a 9:00 table without much grief. We enjoyed ourselves, and the food was great, but I kind of feel like we won't go again.
The space was huge and pretty, with levels we never even saw and walls full of expensive art from one of the investors' personal collections (I figured this out when I googled "funke ruscha" after seeing what looked like several small Ruschas on a secondary wall). We got a table on the ground floor dining room, and it definitely felt like a scene. It was fun and pleasant, but Matt summed it up well when he said he liked the place, but wasn't rooting for it.
Service was polite but impersonal and a little bit off. We took and poured our own wine, paying the $75 corkage for the nice bottle my dad gifted us for my birthday. We also ordered a round of cocktails to start, and it took a full half hour for them to arrive. Meanwhile, our food came super fast, like they were trying to get us out as quickly as possible. Our bad for booking the 9:00 reservation they made available. We received all of our starters before our cocktails, which we'd meant to drink before our wine. Thankfully, our waiter noted the delay and took the cocktails off our bill without us asking. His shift ended at some point and the waiter who replaced him seemed to forget about us. We waited longer for the dessert menu than we did for most of our food.
I did like those cocktails, which were a solid comp at $25 a pop. The Napoli was a nice savory martini, made with Moletto gin, dry vermouth, and a hint of sun-dried tomato. The Piemonte was a stellar mezcal sour with grappa, rhubarb three ways (don't ask me the ways), and lemon. No egg white, but it had a creamy head of foam.
The food was delicious, on par with the fare at Felix and Mother Wolf. The sfincione in bianco was a fantastic Sicilian focaccia with sea salt, extra virgin olive oil, and origano selvatico. The burrata e cachi was excellent, with rich burrata pugliese and beautiful hachiya persimmon from JJ's Lone Daughter Ranch, finished with basil, sea salt, and extra virgin olive oil. The gamberi in salsa verde seem to be a staple at Funke's restaurants, and they're always superb, saucy South Pacific blue prawns with salsa verde and lemon, succulent and substantial with juicy, slurpable heads.
We enjoyed handmade pastas for our main course, which were listed on the menu with the names of the chefs who taught Funke their shapes (Benedetta and Nunzia--if they're not Italian grandmothers, Funke doesn't mind if we think they are). They sold out of the tortelli di zucca, our first choice, but we liked the ones we got. The busiate (Benedetta) was a homey dish with dense little twists of pasta in a pesto trapanese with Mountain Magic tomatoes, basil, and pecorino dolce. The orecchiette (Nunzia) was outstanding, the pasta perfectly supple and tender, served with a flavorful, slightly spicy mix of salsiccia, broccoletti, sugo di pomodoro, 'nduja, and pecorino pugliese.
For dessert, we had the meringata and the apple and quince sbriciolata, which arrived with a birthday candle. The meringata was light and refreshing, a crème fraîche panna cotta topped with tangerine granita, candied fennel, and meringue. The sbriciolata was a lovely cake with an almond crumble, served with rum raisins, crema inglese, sliced apple, and a small scoop of ice cream. We also got chocolate truffles with our check.
All in all, this was a swell birthday dinner, and I'm glad we were able to check out Funke. I wouldn't pick it over, say, Antico Nuovo or Osteria Mozza, but it's a good restaurant, one I'd definitely recommend. It must be one of the hottest openings of the last couple years, and the food is worthy of the buzz. read more