Before you read this review, go make a reservation at Olmsted. I'll wait.
(You're not going to find anything later than 6 pm (unless it's after 9:30 pm), and it isn't going to be anytime in the next week or so, but the sooner you do it the sooner you'll get to eat here. And that's a wonderful thing for you, your mouth, and anyone you decide to bring with you.)
The restaurant scene in Brooklyn continues to astonish me. This certainly looks like a small, neighborhood joint, but the food is nothing short of spectacular. From start to finish, our table was exceptionally happy with all the choices we made.
Although the wine list is quite nice, the cocktails are beautiful and not to be missed. I'm partial to The Rosemary myself, but that's probably because I'll always get any drink that sports a black lava salt rim (this is the only one I've come across so far, but I feel like I can stand by that statement).
The charcuterie pretzel puffs are charcuterie pretzel puffs (which means you should order them). They are a perfect snack. Handheld, salty, fatty, texturally interesting with a nice dipping sauce. The watermelon sushi was stunningly fresh and light and flavorful. The green bean frites predictably satisfying, and the carrot crepe as delicious as it was colorful. The duck breast was perfect, and the bit of duck mortadella on the side was a luxury. I didn't even know the accompanying fairytale eggplant was a thing, but it certainly tasted magical.
The special of chicken liver mousse served with pickled cantaloupe was just that, special. I don't know why we aren't all pickling cantaloupe, but Greg Baxtrom seems to be ahead of us on all things food. It would've been my favorite bite of the night were it not for the dry-rubbed scallops. They came out skewered and laid on cornhusks, and we were instructed to drag them through the accompanying plate of corn, chanterelles, and the sauce of the gods. After one bite, one of my companions immediately said, "We have to order four more." After another, "This is one of the best dishes I've ever had."
And I can't disagree with him.
Was everything perfect? No. The pork collar, despite fantastic flavors, was a bit dry and tough. And my least favorite dish of the evening was the fennel chawanmushi, although I must admit I couldn't stop going back for bite after bite. Be sure you get a little bit of everything in each spoonful; the silky egg custard, the crisp artichokes, and all the rest can be a bit off-putting on their own, but if you make sure to stir it up and get the salty sauce at the bottom, it will grow on you, I guarantee it.
To be sure, this sort of meal is not for everyone. The plates are small, and the prices for such can be larger than some might want. That said, having eaten all over this city, I've found that rarely can you find such high quality ingredients cooked with such care and skill at this price point. I feel lucky to live in a time when a restaurant of this caliber is operating on Vanderbilt, and not in some high-rise hotel in Manhattan. Take advantage. read more