The longer the wait and the higher the expectations, the greater the likelihood of being disappointed. So I was worried when I finally snagged a reservation at Olmsted. It was my number one Waitlisted Restaurant on Resy for God knows how long. Farm-to-table is my favorite kind of restaurant, the hype has been relentless and deafening, and the chef's pedigree (Alinea, Blue Hill at Storn Barns, Per Se, etc.) speaks for itself. In other words, Olmsted was created for me and me alone (obviously). So you could imagine my excitement when I got pinged for a 9:15 table on a Saturday--my reflexes have never been more swift. Now that I've come/seen/ate/conquered, I'm happy to report that I did in fact have the experience I was dreaming of, with some extra love and surprise thrown in there. The space is beautiful and earthy--the ideal Brooklyn restaurant. The execution on food here is a perfect example of why I always prefer small menus. Do a few things superbly instead of spreading efforts too broadly over too many options. The creativity, the flavors, the technique, the thoughtfulness, all of it translated in such a lovely, satisfying way. Yes, the portion sizes may have been smaller than usual, but the quality makes the price worth it.
As I mentioned, the space is beautiful. Upon walking in, I was better able to understand why getting a reservation is particularly difficult: there aren't actually that many seats. While they now reserve bar seating as well, the space is pretty narrow and not too big overall. Even the kitchen is tiny! That said, there's a lovely garden in back you're free to sit in and apparently you can roast s'mores out there for dessert. I might need to return in the spring!
As is the case with the food, it's pretty hard to go wrong here when it comes to beverages. While my original plan was to experiment with some natural wines, the cocktails looked too good to pass up on. If you appreciate masterful mixology, Olmsted has some talented folks behind the bar conceiving of/constructing these drinks. Similar to my favorite cocktail bar in the city, Mace, each of the cocktails here is constructed around one primary ingredient, thoughtfully complementing and highlighting it. My first drink was the Beet (Gin, Preserved Lemon, Maraschino, Juniper), which was superb. Gorgeous color, incredibly well-balanced and fresh. The bf got the Pear (Brandy, Cachaca, Lime, Escubac, Bubbles), which really did taste just like a pear. The Brandy/Cachaca combo worked beautifully with the fruit's flavors. My second drink was the Lavender (Bourbon, Herbs De Provence, PX Sherry, Black Walnut), which was delicious and unique. Really impressive.
The food, as I mentioned, was just as magical. The variety of techniques and styles employed, the creativity, the precision--it was a joy to experience. With a small menu and small plates in general, I really got to appreciate the meal on a more conceptual level than I usually do when I dine out. As a farm-to-table eatery, the menu reflects what's in season and it all comes straight from the garden. As I said, this place was made for me. Eats, below:
Duck Liver Mousse: A+
Like candy. With honey drizzled on top, this is easily the best liver mousse I've tried. Decadent perfection. I'm usually hot and cold on chicken liver mousse but there's no ambivalence about this order. Spread it on a crostini or spoon it right into your mouth. It's that good.
Kale Crab Rangoon w/ Sweet & Sour Sauce: A
Served dumpling-style in a classic, white Chinese food box, these were crispy, creamy, fresh and yummy. The least exciting of the night, but still delicious.
Red Miso Chawanmushi w/ Salsify, Smoked Egg Yolk: A+
From Chinese-inspired to Japanese-inspired. This is one of the most interesting dishes I've had to date. Flavorful, rich but still light, savory in a really unique way.
Carrot Crepe w/ Littleneck Clams, Sunflower: A++
Melt-in-your mouth dreamy. You'll blink and this will be gone. Now, from Japanese-inspired to French-inspired. I can't keep up with you, Olmsted. Beautiful presentation, delicate but powerful. This one was magic.
Brook Trout w/ Creamed Brussels Sprouts, Shaved Chestnuts: A++
I'm not sure if I enjoyed the fish or the accompaniments more. The Brussels/Chestnuts combo was served in its own dish and man, that could've been a standalone offering itself. Rich, warming, satisfying textures, excellent flavors. The fish was light and creamy, punctuated by more creamed Brussels on top. A fabulous way to dress up a seemingly ordinary type of fish.
Long Island Duck Grilled & Larbed w/ Watercress from the Wall: A+
No guinea hen on the menu in March but this was a pretty great runner-up. Not sure if this was Thai-style or more South American but either way, more worldly influence here. Cooked as well as I'd hope for and it's hard not to love that you can see one of its featured ingredients growing on the wall right next to you.
A meal to remember, well worth the wait. read more