When the mercury begins to climb up the thermometer and the dogwood trees boast their blooms, New York City streets changes from canyons of stoic stares to a carnival cityscape where shops windows open like a barker's rictus. Tucked neatly into Henry Street near Brooklyn Heights, Noodle Pudding opens its windows to the summer air and stretches its awnings through cool breezes to serve regional Italian dishes at reasonable prices and glasses of wines for a mere pittance.
The regional Italian menu offers classic dishes such as Penne all' Arrabiata, carpaccio, Linguine Alla Puttanesca and buffalo mozzarella with tomatoes and roasted peppers. But the menu is fitted with a list of specials that change nightly and which outnumber the standards almost two to one. Of course, favorites like burrata with baby arugula and heirloom tomatoes appear and re-appear due to availability, but recently I was able to order a plate of garganelli with duck ragu and fava beans.
While the name is off-putting to some--noodle pudding (sometimes called kugel) is a dish of egg noodles, sour cream and cottage cheese, flavored with vanilla and jam and, of paramount importance, distinctly un-Italian--the quaint storefront is framed in flowers and bustles with four-tops and a wall-length bench that seats half an alley of intimate tables for two. The waiters, runners and busboys tuck their ties into their shirts and bustle about with only a modicum of banter but a bounty of helpfulness, tact and efficiency.
The last time I visited, the host stand proudly displayed a basket of Zagat Guides (2008, Best Italian Restaurants in the US) in which they were awarded high marks. My girlfriend took one and was rewarded with a smile and a reminder that as a local she could share in their pride and conviviality.
A simple salad of beets, goat cheese and escarole was delivered to our table quickly and we split it with a plate of beefsteak tomatoes drenched in olive oil atop mozzarella cheese; standard fare at any Italian trattoria, but constructed with color and priced modestly. Enjoying the first, delicate greens of spring we watched our dog who espied our dinner jealously from his spot near a parking meter (to underscore NP's gracious service, upon noticing we were with our dog, we were speeded to a table at the front of the restaurant!). We followed with a fine linguine with diced pancetta, fava bean puree (it is spring, after all) and pecorino cheese and a delicious Bolognese which could have been more tender, less beefy but served its function of comfort.
Because Noodle Pudding is more of a local spot than a hot spot, it might underwhelm visitors. The artwork and décor are simple, unassuming; meanwhile, the house wines are table ready rather than ready to be ruminated on. But as local spot, it is a treasure. The price of a full meal here would not get you a bottle of wine in a similarly popular place in Manhattan. Likewise, Noodle Pudding is not going to insult and berate its patrons with the hipness of Williamsburg or the Yuppie-dom of Park Slope. Off the beaten path of Brooklyn Heights, in a peripheral spot not far from the Brooklyn Bridge, this restaurant is a boon to its neighborhood. read more