Some people have a sip of adult beverage, a glass of warm milk, restful meditation, or heavy doses of prescription medication to cure a bout of insomnia. I write about things I've eaten.
Toward the top of my list is a dish which features an ingredient I understand to be a favorite of the Taiwanese; Fermented Tofu. Here it's commonly called "Stinky Tofu." Of the few people I know here of Taiwanese heritage, one restaurant was recommended for me to get my first whiff of this stinkified treat. Boiling Point. A Soup Specialty Restaurant. This one was in Arcadia, CA.
I arrived about an hour or so before they closed. I pulled up to this place which had several people outside waiting for a table, and several more inside doing the same. The place is packed with lots of tables, and every seat was occupied by feasting patrons. Seeing that the wait would easily have been a half hour or more, I chose my order to go, though I would have liked to sit and enjoy a meal over one of the table burners that keep your soup piping hot!
I didn't even open the menu. "Stinky Tofu." I told the smiling and very nice young woman behind the counter. She (very patiently) offered me instructions on selecting the spicy level of my soup and it's accoutrements. I went with "very spicy". I finally settled on an order of the glass noodles to finish out my order.
I gave the lovely girl a half smile, and a little wink along with my credit card to settle the bill, and received a few coins, a receipt, and what I presume to be "may I help you?" in some language to the next guests behind me. One adventure at a time I suppose! ;)
My soup was ready in a few minutes and I opted to drive home and eat it in my humble abode. I opened up the to go container at my little matchbox table, expecting the apocalypse or to quote Michael Jackson's Thriller "The funk of forty-thousand years" to assault my nose. But this was not the case. This soup smelled a lot like it looked. Soup. Spicy, warm, oniony, with that slight funk that accompanies any soup you put cabbage into. That said:
I don't know what was in this soup really. There were the "usuals" like cabbage, spices, green onion, and meat of some sort. But I went digging straight away for the Fermented Smelly Goodness. I was either lucky or unfortunate, because I found two things that smelled, well, stinky. One was tofu, the other was...stinky.
I lifted the umbra brown thing to my nose, and promptly put it back in the bowl. It stunk. It smelled E-X-A-C-T-L-Y like a well-stocked stable. You know what I mean. That smell and its "grassy" notes wafted into my nostrils. It took me by surprise to be sure; I had been expecting a different fermented smell. Beer yeast, or the funk of some good (bad) cheese. So fine, with my momentary alarm abated, I picked up the as yet still unidentified stink-loaf in my spoon, and gave it a slurp.
It wasn't bad. It wasn't anything really. It was all smell and no mouth funk I would have expected. I came across a few of these little offerings in my bowl, and ate them all, my taste buds winning the sensory fight over my nose. The real surprise was the white stuff. This I could readily identify as tofu. And found that the reverse of my previous experience was true. It smelled like any other tofu, like whatever it was cooked in.
It tasted a little foul, slightly putrid and sour. Not in a gagging, horrid sort of way. How can I put this. It was like....taking a few bites out of some leftover pizza, tasting something "off" in the pepperoni or the sausage but eating it anyway, and being mid-way through your second slice when someone reminds you that it was left out at the picnic all day and in the fridge only half the night and may be "past it's prime." Then you get a little stomach churn going, and hork down the pizza anyway. Know what I mean? Suuuure you do...
Take that same feeling, fly it to Taiwan, put it in a bowl, season it up, and you got it. It wasn't vomitously horrid, but it was distinctly fermented to a point that I can see how it is definitely an accustomed taste.
The rest of the soup was actually quite good. The broth was flavorful and rich, the veggies were still somewhat crisp, despite sitting in my car for an hour on my way home, and the glass noodles added some nice substance to the dish that balanced it out to make it a good meal in a bowl. There was a healthy portion of what I am guessing was pork, though it was a bit chewy for my taste.
As for the restaurant, I am already looking forward to my next dish there, though I may choose another one of their many offerings to test and tempt my palate. Overall, I am finally glad to have broadened my culinary horizons, and going the soup route was a really good call, though it did come close to making my stomach churn up to the "almost" boiling point.
Next time, I'll muster up the courage to try Stinky tofu as the street food version that the Taiwanese enjoy. read more