In the dearth of culinary greatness that abounds in the Napa valley, there is TORC. Headed by chef Sean O'Toole, TORC holds its own in this abundance with a perfectly prepared seasonal menu and an impressive wine list.
I've had the good fortune to frequent Napa many, many times over the years as I have family living there. With each visit, I like to check out a different restaurant, and on this one it was TORC. I was anything but disappointed, indeed it was one of the best dining experiences I've had.
My group started our meal with some nibbles to share. The sweet potato pakora perfectly highlight the chef's global inspiration for his dishes: lightly fried bites of sweet potato, delicately spiced and dipped in a yogurt-truffle sauce were out of this world. Likewise, the chilled spring pea veloute was gone in a flash. It burst with incomparable fresh pea flavor in the mouth, at once creamy then a bit of texture from the accompanying garni.
And then there's TORC's famous deviled eggs. All the acclaim these little gems receive is entirely spot on. Best. Deviled. Eggs. Ever. Creamy yet tart from the pickled onions and smoky with bacon, I could eat these all day. We also had to try the asparagus with egg, black garlic, cubeb pepper and toast, another palate delight. On this particular occasion, the egg was cooked a little too much, the yolk was not runny at all which I expect in these sorts of dishes, but everything else was so spot on I have to believe this was an anomaly.
And I can't forget to mention the truly tasty salad that practically disappeared as soon as I photographed it. Baby lettuces become the backdrop for sweet cara cara orange and crunchy black walnuts with a drizzle of miso vinaigrette. Then it was time for the entrees.
The short rib was supremely tender, perfect for mopping up the rich cabernet glaze. Crunchy snap peas and soft potato and artichoke hearts rounded it out.
The halibut was some of the best I've had. Incredibly light and flaky, it burst with flavors of sweet meyer lemon. A simple yet perfect dish.
My favorite, though, were the diver scallops. Huge, meaty scallops are balanced by charred endive and tiny morsels of grapefruit with a sweet, rich balsamic-brown butter sauce to top it. The flavor combinations of salt, sweet, tart, and smoky in each bite was just perfection.
And finally for dessert, a deconstructed red velvet cake. The perfect ending to a perfect meal.
In addition to the regular menu, TORC offers a prix-fixe tasting menu consisting of 3 courses for just $46, with a wine pairing available for an additional $24. It's a fantastic way to experience the chef's picks for the day. The bonus is that not everyone at the table has to order the tasting menu and there are 2-3 options to choose from for each course. On this particular occasion, I ordered the tasting menu and opted for the asparagus, short rib, and red velvet cake. Definitely not a bad decision.
The space at TORC is entirely open, making for a noisy environment. We were so absorbed in our family group that I didn't notice any conversations from our neighbors, though. The background music (and serious props to whomever curates that excellent playlist) helps to distract from the noise.
I really love the open kitchen concept and TORC embraces that as well. It is a delight watching the artistry of the kitchen staff amidst the hustle and bustle of the food service world. I would love to return and sit at the chef's counter next time.
Tip: Order from the tasting menu to fully appreciate the chef's talents. read more