Chef Aaron Chamberlin & I have had a somewhat lackluster relationship over the years. I've visited Chef Chamberlin's other Phoenix creations (Phoenix Public Market Cafe & St. Francis) with mixed results. Chamberlin certainly has a penchant for beautiful adaptive reuses of old buildings, but the food more often than not has left me underwhelmed. In Taco Chelo, Chamberlin is making his first venture into the Mexican food realm inside a building on Roosevelt Row that most recently housed Flowers Beer & Wine (a craft beer & wine store that I dearly hope will reopen again nearby someday). I don't always observe Taco Tuesday, but with a new taqueria just a few blocks from my apartment, I decided this Tuesday at happy hour was the right time.
As of my first visit here, the restaurant had been open for just barely a month. You'll find it on the southeast corner of 5th Street & Roosevelt inside the old Flowers building (now part of a growing adaptive reuse complex called The Blocks). Taco Chelo takes up about half the space that Flowers Beer & Wine once did, and the space is a hip modern urban neighborhood design that dreams are made of. An absolutely gorgeous array of exposed brick, gold trim throughout the ceiling, wooden tables and seating, as well as turquoise hues throughout the bar area. You'll also find beautiful art on the wall courtesy of artist Gennaro Garcia. The space is completely unrecognizable from the Flowers days, but in this case I mean that as a compliment. Inside there's seating for close to 30 (including the bar) & probably room for 40-45 more in the picnic table seating area outside. They will most definitely need to get more shading for the outside before summer hits, but the foundation is solid. Here you order at the front register helpfully marked with a Taco sign, grab a number, & sit wherever you want. Dining solo for happy hour, I saddled up to the bar.
The menu at Taco Chelo (co-created by Chamberlin & chef Suny Santana) is somewhat limited, but concise & easy to digest. You've got 4 apps, 5 tacos, 2 salads, & 1 dessert to choose from on the food side. On the drink side it's more diverse with a fairly wide array of cocktails, beers, wines, & non-alcoholic drinks. I haven't had mezcal in ages, so I started things off with their Mezcal Paloma. Lime, ginger, bitters, grapefruit soda, and of course the mezcal itself. I think they threw in a little house spice mix in there as well for an extra kick. A very pleasant refreshing beverage to start with a spicy tartness to boot. For the apps, most are ones you find at most sit down Mexican joints anywhere. Chicharrones however are somewhat unusual to see on a menu so I grabbed those. Basically fried pork rinds covered in cotija cheese and chimayo chili mix, with sides of guacamole and Cholula hot sauce. Mine came with ten pieces in all. Super crunchy (sometimes rock hard) & messy, but a pretty good vehicle for the guac. The cheese & spices also work well here (that is of course if you can keep them from flying everywhere).
Now then, this is Taco Tuesday isn't it? And I was feeling particularly ambitious today. Taco Chelo's five taco offerings include: Vegetable, Fish, Carnitas, Carne Asada, & Beef Barbacoa. Although I'm disappointed they don't offer Al Pastor or Lengua tacos yet, I decided to give all five current varieties a try by ordering one of each. For those wondering about the veggie, just know that there's a ton of mushrooms in this version. Mushrooms aren't my thing so I wasn't a fan of their veggie taco, but you might come to a different conclusion than I did. As for the rest of the tacos, I was mostly impressed. The tortillas are made fresh by the staff for each order & the meats were quite delicious. The Barbacoa fell a little flat for me but the Carnitas, Fish, and Carne Asada tacos were perfect. After all that food, I had just enough room for their one & only dessert. Their Tres Leches cake dessert is about twice the size of a hockey puck & topped with almonds and orange slices. Its served cold with a smooth creamy texture, which certainly helps to soothe your mouth after all those spices from earlier. The flavor profile overall was respectable, though not spectacular.
Total cost for all the food and my drink including tax and tip came to about $45. First impressions? A fantastic space and neighborhood hangout with decent (at times great) food & drink options. My biggest beef is really what's missing from the menu. Horchata? Al Pastor? Lengua? Nowhere to be found. Even the most basic taqueria should have those offerings (in my humble opinion). Its early yet so maybe that will be on the menu in due time. For now, its worth a look if you're curious & definitely a great hangout spot for small groups. With so much great Mexican food throughout Downtown, its not easy to compete. Taco Chelo has potential. Potential I hope they'll be able to fully exploit. read more