This is the most progressive restaurant youre going to find in New Orleans. Its not to the level of advanced molecular gastronomy, but I guarantee you most of these dishes arent being served nearby. Its also one of the better fine dining experiences Ive had while in NOLA. Its not perfect, but the chef here has a beautiful and personal vision that shined through the meal.
I walked from my airbnb (located near Kajun's) and found the surrounding area of Saint Germain to look rough, but I had no problems or questionable encounters. Walking in is a different story, its like a fancy home from a hundred years ago, but with splashes of modern vibes. I was fortunate enough to get a seat at the bar at the last minute. The meal was about roughly two hours. This was probably the least amount of food Ive been served while in New Orleans. Some people may be upset that they are getting small portions, but I tell you that this meal is not meant to be a buffet. This was more of an art gallery for food, with rustic, european vibes, as if I was in a french countryside, eating with my locals.
I know most of what I will be describing may change based on the season but I will still share my thoughts.
The complimentary cocktail was well done and balanced, but it tastes too much like a grapefruit, which I hate. This was the ONLY thing I disliked from the menu.
The parmesan onion broth amuse bouche was super smooth on the tongue, rich in umami, and plenty of parmesan without being obnoxious.
Lamb merguez with a mint leaf, , cube of bread soaking in chicken jus, with cucumber cream. This tasted like a beef stroganoff roaming the garden. The herbal elements linger long after the bite is taken. Interesting use of textures.
The squid in koji and bell pepper chorizo pine nut filling in a sourdough tarte was a beautiful and playful two partner. The seashell on a bed of rocks evokes the ocean, but the use of potatoes with the squid and the use of bell peppers with the tarte were the real counterpoints that I found most interesting. Feels at home by the seaside and rustic, yet effervescent and airy in its mood.
The blue crab tempura battered bite was a condensed crab ragoon filled with crab dip. The leek? At the bottom is a nice, refreshing touch.
The corn cake griddle and year aged cultures butter is pure pleasure. It's nice to see corn cakes get elevated representation.
The sweet bread in nettle puree and apples and celestun (celery from the Mediterranean??). Dare I call this poor man's foie gras? Because there's a similar feeling in its offal and creamy taste. The apples initially have a NyQuil taste, but it disappears after the second bite. They were the necessary brightness to the darkness of the sweetbreads.
The caccio and pepe pasta dish was possibly the lightest pasta dish I've had. What I expected to be was this dense, heavy and acidic meal was quite the opposite. The pepper isn't even a bother, and the fermented tomato water is such a delight here!! The truffles accentuate without even being the main attraction. That angel hair pasta was super soft and delicate. It felt like divine air being transformed into permanence. The milk bread was good, but the real flavor just comes from the green garlic on top.
The guinea fowl is just like how I would smoke my chicken at home: heavy oak smoked to where it fills my entire nostrils! The chives at the bottom were a nice accompaniment. The white asparagus sitting in its own broth was a lovely pairing. I'm normally not excited about white asparagus but this feels me feel all warm and cozy.
The palate cleaner was more complex than it needed to be, but it was quite enjoyable. Salty, oily, with a bright orange sherbet.
The cheese soufflé should be called triple cream brie soufflé! For some sweetness, they made the base of the soufflé bowl basically caramelized sugar, similar to the top layer of crème brule. The thought and attention to detail!
Smoked vanilla panna cotta with lemon grantina and some type of caramelized sugar on top. Lots of textures going on here! Felt moody and mysterious as I ended the night. read more