Price: $$$
Summary: Simple, well executed dishes make this a place worth waiting to pack into
It had been a while since we had last ventured to Matchbox and we were hungry for some quality pizza. There are other places around DC to grab a quick slice, but fond memories convinced us that only they had what we craved. Matchbox's DC area locations are in Chinatown and Eastern Market, the great weather making us choose the latter location to enjoy their outdoor seating. Although the restaurant has been around for a few years, the crowds and long waits haven't disappeared. Since the restaurant doesn't take reservations, waits range from immediate seating to 45 minutes. The atmosphere is fun and casual, its beer menu ranges from PBR to Delirium, and space is limited. The question is whether Matchbox's American cuisine focused menu and execution still warrant cooling your heels or if it's just another place that serves burgers and pizza.
Although we had the option of six or nine, we decided upon only three Mini Burgers as an appetizer. Certified Angus beef patties are on toasted brioche with pickles and then topped with a large amount of onion straws. Gouda, mozzarella or gorgonzola were available for an extra charge. The burgers were surprisingly well cooked and juicy for being small pieces of meat, the flavor of Angus beef coming right through the toasted brioche. The thin, bountiful onion straws were lightly breaded and maintained their great taste without being heavily greasy. The additional light sprinkle of parmesan cheese was a nice touch and made me seriously consider ordering another round. Mini burgers are nothing new at restaurants, but this is the first time they've been the same quality as their bigger brother.
Our second dish was a bowl of the watermelon-infused Gazpacho, a cooled tomato soup with an infused watermelon flavor, finely minced vegetables and a shaving of basil. We've had many forms of Gazpacho before, some better (Jaleo) than others, but this is the first time we've sampled a version featuring another flavor so openly. The watermelon addition was an interesting flavor combination, the fresh taste of the fruit lending itself naturally to the light soup. The sweetness overtook any usual spice that gazpacho has, something that began overloaded our senses the more we tasted it. The watery consistency of the watermelon also made this dish much thinner than usual. It was nice take on the dish, especially with the heavy heat of a DC summer, but this soup would probably be better served as just a shooter instead of in a fullsized bowl.
It's worth noting that Matchbox is known for its wood-fired, brick oven pizzas. Unable to decide which one to get for our main course, our waiter bowed to our indecision and suggested splitting one large pizza with two options on the menu. Safe to say, we applauded this compromise.
Our first choice was the Spicy Meatball, house-made spicy meatballs combined with crispy bacon, crushed red pepper, garlic puree, tomato sauce and mozzarella. The meatballs were fantastic and the spice was just right, letting you taste the crushed red pepper and spiced sausage without needing to drown your tongue in water afterwards. The bacon added some needed emphasis to the meaty flavor, since the actual amount of meatballs were few, but we enjoyed the chance to have more than just crust and animal parts. While other pizzas on the menu, like the Matchbox Meat, throw so much at you that you can process it, the Spicy Meatball's more balanced approach doesn't make you feel like a heart attack is the next step after your meal.
The second half of the pizza was Chicken Pesto, featuring grilled marinated chicken, house-made pesto sauce and mozzarella. The ground basil and garlic sauce works well with the grilled chicken, the light flavors a welcomed addition to the meal. While some pizzas' heavy cheese and toppings can weigh the diner down, this Chicken Pesto allows you to enjoy some great flavors without quickly feeling uncomfortably full. Onions and pine nuts were also added at our request. The only complaint we had was that the chicken itself was rather pedestrian. For a pizza that has such a little cook time, there was an opportunity to showcase more tender, perhaps even rotisserie, pieces.
Matchbox is a great place for beers, burgers and pizza for a moderate price without the atmosphere of a low-lit sports bar or feeling trapped by a menu containing only greasy, fried food. Although the wait for a table can often be long since they do not take reservations, it's easy enough to cool your heels with their decent drink selection. The staff is friendly and happy to take on special requests (cue the pine nuts). Although it is not reviewed here, their brunch menu does impress, especially their Eggs Chesapeake that wraps the featured crab cake in bacon. Much of Matchbox's menu is the usual American faire, but the simple items they execute well will likely bring you back for seconds. read more