OK, if you're willing please just get ready to slog through a thorough yet admittedly strident review of Le Bouillon. The up-front warning is offered here simply because we have some obvious pretenders among a few early-bird "reviewers," whose shortsighted perspectives could otherwise mislead you if you let them.
Don't let them. Don't miss out here. Le Bouillon is a great call -- an important place and a true destination.
Bottom line is if you love great food -- and by that I mean seriously great food -- trust both your own instincts and the advice of those who share your overriding outlook. By contrast, for those who care not so much about great food but prefer to navel-gaze about how, if they ran their own fantasy restaurant, they would pick another carpet or a different lighting manufacturer, etc... -- Well, we're just on another page there, so those folks need read no further.
All I can tell you is I'm a born-and-bred local who's also been around the global block, a careful watcher of all things food here and elsewhere, and make it my business to know what's happening in Omaha especially. I pay attention whether due or not. Yet I pay respect only where due. And be assured, I watch my own backyard.
So... onto the so-called review: Le Bouillon is at the top of the top places to eat, and enjoy life, here in Omaha (and frankly through to Chicago, Denver and KC), particularly if you appreciate French regional cuisine. You've either heard of Paul Kulik and his crew here (or at the Boiler Room) or you haven't, but I'll tell you if you haven't maybe you should just pull out the old smart phone and try a Google on that. You are in good hands.
I won't push some personal "take" on what's best here, but I will offer you a current what's-up from my knowledge of some the heavy hitters: super fresh oysters at the raw bar, superb charcuterie (you can never miss with the pate maison), the duck confit on the Toasts menu, sweetbreads or arroz a la plancha on Les Petits menu, and PFC chicken or Piedmontese Ribeye (for 2 plus) on Les Plats menu. Just saying and just for instance. Plenty more where those came from.
The thing that gets me is that literally just weeks after Le Bouillon opened up earlier this year (and mind you this place is an iconic venue in Omaha's Old Market that had been put aside for years in wait for just the right chef), we locals were astounded to find ourselves with a smattering of know-nothing armchair critics whinging absently about how they would prefer some other type "art" on the walls here -- yet all the while praising the food in otherwise illogically mid-starred reviews.
So let's just get to and then past the question of the art on Le Bouillon's walls. And I approach this as someone who admittedly wouldn't know art if it bit me on the behind, but at the same time as someone who knows very well the history of this city, this neighborhood, this block, and this highly coveted space.
The art on the walls of Le Bouillon is all by the late Sam Mercer, the very artist and visionary without whom nothing in the Old Market would even exist as a destination. None of that is remotely an overstatement, as any additional Google search will amply attest. Although Sam was a talented if not a professional painter, the deeper point is that he and his family are the first and founding generation of a far deeper and civic art form -- the establishment of the Old Market itself -- and as such they are now the true ancestors to at least three generations of scores of other artists who cut their teeth in this very "arts district" that Sam was instrumental in founding -- something that now stands as Omaha's artistic crown jewel.
So when I see some random Yelper spouting off from one side of their mouth about how an appetizer at Le Bouillon is "fantastic" yet leaving a ridiculous mid-starred review because they do not personally appreciate the restaurant's decor, I am left scratching my head to the point I can feel the scraping on my own brain. After all, such people presumably must walk through the streets of the Old Market just to arrive at Le Bouillon's door -- yet somehow they miss entirely Sam's other and crucial palette on the way in?
So all that aside, how about we just keep it simple: Do you love truly great food -- so great you'd be amazed it has hit that level in Omaha? Next, do you love that same great food with impeccable service -- to the point where service is not merely service, but, dare one say it, an "art"? And would you like both of those in one of the most important historic and artistic venues in Omaha (and, frankly for that matter, west of the Mississippi)?
OK, then. You've come to the right place. Oh, and once again, the duck confit is freaking killer. And if that's too fancy for you here in little old Omaha, by all means try the ribeye. You don't have to be an art critic to appreciate a perfect ribeye in Omaha. Don't miss out. Bon appetit. read more