Sophie's Choice.
I will not choose a favorite dish. You can't make me.
After taking a brief winter hiatus to help Kim Bartmann plan the next phases of her empire building, Chef Kevin Kathman has returned to helm the Monday prix fixe. AND IT SHOWS.
Tonight's journey towards gustatory ecstasy!
- Basil Lillet -
One of the newer cocktails they've put on the menu. Crisp, refreshing aperitif. Ready to eat? Damn skippy!
- Baked Oysters: chorizo, manchego, spinach -
Meet Juan Diego Rockefeller. The chorizo adds a Spanish flair to the Oysters Rockefeller preparation - creamy sweet oysters on the half shell baked with spinach and manchego cheese browned on top, punctuated by the spicy salty tang of the chorizo. Ay mi dios, you had me at hola. - 5/5.
- Haddock: english peas, carrots, radishes, ramps -
Unfortunately, the red-headed stepchild of the bunch. Not that it was bad; no, it was great and well executed, it's just that everything else was slightly more inventive and thoughtful. Perfectly done and moist white fish. Precious veggies. Could have used more ramps. Love ramps, but they're just coming into their own with this prolonged malingering winter we've been having. This dish is said to be joining the regular menu, but with sole instead of haddock. Any other time, I would have been ga-ga over this, but it was eclipsed by its menu-mates. - 4.5/5
- Pork Belly: corn, truffles, spring onion -
Don't make me choose. This was one of the evening's stars. Rich without being greasy. Glistening pork belly with a beautifully caramelized sweet skin. Subo's supposed pork candy pales in comparison. Initially thought the truffles could have been overpowering, but they were well balanced in the corn providing an earthy undertone and complexity to the sweet crisp kernels. Pork paradise. - 6/5.
- OFF MENU: Bone in Lamb Chop: kidneys with fleur de sel, celery root puree, fava beans -
Don't want to choose! Chef Kathman slipped this into the progression of our prix fixe. He had recently butchered a lamb and had these beautiful fresh kidneys to go along with the lamb chop left on the rib. Kidneys clean and fresh tasting, no hint of urea (Whee-whee! Oui oui! No pee-pee!). Fleur de sel added a nice seasoned crunch and textural contrast to the slightly toothsome roasted renal tissue. Lamb done perfectly pink. Gnawed the meat from the bone. Plate was pried from my hands as I snarled like a pit bull. - 6/5.
- Fillet of Beef: asparagus, serrano ham, bearnaise
I cannot choose. Serrano ham wrapped around 2 asparagus spears, perfectly done fillet, creamy bearnaise. I couldn't decide which bite to end on, so the last bite was all of it stacked together. This too was a trial for the regular menu and will reportedly be served with a strip steak for the larger regular entree portion. - 6/5
- Chocolate Mousse: white, dark, caramel -
Did not have. Had a cheese dessert substituted instead. - */5
- French Alpine Goat's Milk Cheese: first plain, and then with macadamia nut brittle, roasted cashews, honey -
Is not choosing ultimately a choice? Kevin had this wonderful artisanal cheese (whose name escapes me) and initially offered it to us as a cheese course before dessert. Creamy and rich with subtle chevre undertones. No overpowering billy goat's gruff. We tried to savor each morsel, but I ended up inhaling the stuff. When he expressed a slight reservation about the chocolate mousse and encouraged us to substitute for a different dessert, I knew what I wanted. I wanted more cheese. (I guess I did choose after all.) Only I wanted a little extra along with the cheese to sweeten the deal and Kevin didn't disappoint. Sweet crunchiness of the brittle contrasted with and complimented the smoothness of the cheese. The cashews added a mildly bitter depth to broaden the palate. I need to remember the name of this cheese! But my carotid arteries were overwhelmed by the micelles of buttery sweet rich goodness depriving my limbic system of any faculty for memory. Remember the name of the cheese? I can barely remember my own name. Huh? What? Me like a da cheese. Cheese gud. - 6/5.
I respect Chef Kathman's integrity to steer his customers away from things he wasn't completely satisfied with - the consistency of the bottom layer of the mousse just wasn't up to his standards. We weren't the only ones allowed to substitute. Other diners around us, partaking in the prix fixe, were also allowed to substitute desserts.
With Kevin back in charge of the prix fixe menu, the dishes were clean and well presented. He let his technique, preparations, and locally sourced as possible ingredients speak for themselves. Most importantly, no fucking thoughtless micro-greens!
All for $32! (- the EtOH).
Sophie's choice. I cannot choose just one. Just like Pokemon, I gotta have 'em all. Do yourself a favor and stop in to try Chef Kathman's Monday night prix fixe menu. Just don't y'all try do it all at the same time, ya hear? I like having my regular Monday night table. read more