First time visit to Houston and to Tony's. Pretty decent and well dressed crowd, even on a Monday evening. We were the only group without jackets, although a similar group arrived later.
Excellent arrangement of grissini, Parmesan crisps and toasts arrive with a tiny dollop of oil and a generous potion of butter, enlivened with what I thought were truffle shavings, but turned out to be black lava salt. Delicious. It is replaced twice even though we had not finished it. Generous, if a bit extravagant. My host picks a nice bottle of chardonnay, possibly the Phelps, I didn't get a good look.
A bit of semantic confusion - my host asks the waiter if the halibut is a steak or filet. The waiter says it's a filet but like a steak. To my mind this makes no sense - either it's a halibut steak on the bone, or a boneless filet. My host plumps for it anyway. He chooses the starter of a cold antipasto. I go with the orecchiete and our other colleague chooses the artichoke appetizer.
An amuse bouche of mushroom tea with a bit of almond arrives. Somewhat pointless.
The orrechiete with baccala arrive quickly and I realize they are fresh pasta, delicate in a creamy sauce, but a small portion for an appetizer, more of a tasting menu portion. The cold antipasto is lovely to look at, prosciutto, wrapped around what I took to be burrata and figs, but small for an antipasto. The tower of artichoke (insalata ortolano) is the best portion.
We are offered delicious breads, a marvelous focaccia and what I thought was explained as pumpkin bread, moist and sweet like a date nut bread.
I order a glass of Danjean Berthoux pinot noir ($16) to have with my tagliata. A cutting board arrives, and soon after the steak itself - it's a good sized rib steak, not a fiorentina. The steak is sliced and plated with a tiny scattering of grilled radicchio. The balsamic sauce is one of the better uses that has been made of that condiment. The wine pairs nicely.
My host's halibut arrives, a filet of about 6-7 ozs. in a cream sauce. Our colleague goes for the Chilean sea bass.
We share a small side of asparagus.
The steak is aged to perfection and there is little fat for a rib steak, perhaps it was trimmed away in the slicing. I thought it was superior to the last great rib steak I had, at Joe's in Chicago, but at $68 it was a good bit more expensive. The only disappointment was the rib bone. I believe that the steak had been portioned so that the bone was split between two servings, and the small bone got cold while I ate the slices of meat.
My colleagues seemed please with their fish entrees.
I eschew dessert, being full and having spent on the steak. My host goes for a panettone french toast, our colleague opts for the tuxedo cake. Both arrive in large portions, atoning for what has come before. Their eyes are bigger than their stomachs. I am forced to share. The panettone toast is delicious, but would serve better as a brunch option. The cake is generous in a size, like something offered by a Jersey diner, but much higher quality. There's enough for my colleague, more than I wanted to eat, and a large piece leftover to bring home for his better half.
Espresso is on point, accompanied with a nice almond biscotto.
Four different petit-fours is offered - so we each have to try something unique. Pretty sure mine was a tiny key lime tart.
Expensive, good service, good food, but larger apps and smaller desserts would make for better balance. A special occasion restaurant. read more