As much as I have been virtually conditioned to loathe all things Boston due to certain professional sports allegiances, I had to put aside these feelings when I heard about Smithereens, a refined New England serving an all-star lineup of seafood. Smithereens had only been open for a week when we dined here, and it was clear some of the kinks (read: service inefficiency) still needed to be worked out, but our experience here was overall pleasant and memorable. Though our table was given away because we were six minutes late (for context, I am usually between 5-10 minutes late for every dinner reservation and this has never happened to me before because there is always a 15-minute grace period), we were eventually seated at the bar and were given a free round due to the mixup, so most of the night was enjoyable.
We came here for an 8:15 reservation on a Saturday night. We missed it at first, as it's somewhat hidden and subtly marked. Like a subterranean hideout, though given the menu theme perhaps it's more appropriate to term it a submarine hideout. A little cramped in the entrance area which made waiting for seats challenging, but we managed okay once I got over my initiatial irritation. Bar seating ended up being fun because we were able to chat with the bartender the entire time, who had conceived of the entire cocktail menu and had incredible insight into all of the amazing small producers out there.
I have become very skills at spotting the martini on a restaurant drink menu, even if it is not labeled as such. I didn't need to do any digging here, because clear as day was a drink called a Dirty Martini. Don't be fooled, though, because this is unlike any dirty martini you've had before. Its ingredients are seawater gin, pu-ehr tea, and seaweed eau de vie. Didn't know there was such a thing as essence of seaweed? Think it could potentially be a joke? Indeed it does exist and I was lucky enough to try some on its own at the end of the night because of my intrigue and the bartender's generosity. Anyway, if you want the briniest drink you can think of, this is for you. The tea gives it an earthy vibe and as you'd expect the seawater gin adds some necessary salinity. This would be next to impossible to make at home so make sure to order this here.
After having my world rocked by the martini, not much else could compare, but I had a great off-dry riesling that came by the glass. As a seafood restaurant, I appreciate that the wine menu is divided into white wine and "not white wine". To finish, I had the Negroni (buttered gin, amaro, buckwheat, strawberry), which again was unlike any negroni I'd had before and I'll probably have nothing like it since. Strawberries and negronis are a great match, but what I did not know was that butter-washed gin could actually work in a negroni. It's roasty and toasty and great as a nightcap.
Food-wise, we obviously stuck mostly with seafood. The smaller plates were less exciting and creative than the larger ones, which were pretty majestic. Nothing was bad and we didn't regret any of our choices, but it's worth saying. If the drink menu was any indication, Smithereens takes food you've had before and completely reinvents it through truly unique preparations. They definitely get points for innovation. Eats, below:
Beets w/ seaweed and rose oil: A-
I love beets and these were solid but probably the least exciting of what we ordered. I felt like the beet flavor itself dominated such that it overpowered some of the subtler flavors. But still enjoyable, a nice complement to the richer dishes.
Hay-smoked amberjack w/ perilla: A-
Light, citrusy, delicate. Very good but not super memorable.
Halibut w/ bread sauce: A
I had never heard of bread sauce prior to our meal here, and it's not so different from what you'd expect. It's apparently a British thing, a sauce made with milk and breadcrumbs, which sounds like it could be heavy but the sauce itself was thin and surprisingly a natural complement to the halibut.
BBQ monkfish tail w/ sweet potato: A+
Absolutely the star of the night. I wish I wrote down how this was prepared, because they explained it in impressive detail. Definitely something about pork fat, prepared in the style of something that is quite different from seafood. Few fish could hold up to this preparation, but the meatiness of monkfish really works. Just as amazing if not more amazing was the sweet potato which was possibly the best sweet potato I've ever had. Honestly, who needs dessert when you can have this?
Grilled swiss chard and salted radish: A
So for some reason this came at the very end of the meal long after we had finished both fish dishes, so not only did we need to wait, but the order was strange. Luckily, the dish itself was fun and creative and tasty, almost like swiss chard sushi or lettuce wraps, minus any meat, just earthy, warming veggies. read more