We didn't start out the night planning to dine at Arvine but sometimes you can't control where the vibes blow you. Arvine has the benefit of a prime location so it's likely many people will stumble upon it or, put more accurately, find themselves intrigued while walking past and before they know it they'll be retracing their steps and find themselves at a table deep into the menu. Or maybe that's just me. In any case, Arvine has the makings of a great neighborhood restaurant. Very good American food with enough whimsy to keep it interesting but not so wacky that it's unapproachable. A welcoming energy and good for pretty much any type of occasion. In between mainstays like Olio e Piu and Rosemary's, I imagine Arvine is likely to get a lot of traction when people start to catch on to what it's about.
We came here at around 8:30pm on a Saturday night. We had planned on going somewhere else but on the way walked past Arvine, which had a warm glow to it that drew me in. I had read about its opening recently so it had name recognition for me, but seeing it in the flesh had me intrigued. As we walked up to the spot we planned on eating at I had this urge to call an audible so we returned to Arvine as a walk-in and were able to sit within five minutes. They were almost too friendly and accommodating -- they were probably just happy to have good traffic in their first few weeks open but it was to the point that their graciousness and appreciation started to become overwhelming for us as patrons. But of course, I would rather be appreciated as a patron than the other way around, so I should be careful what I complain about! Anyway, as soon as we sat down with our menus, we knew we had made the right decision. I'm not sure if it's the design, decor, lighting, staff, or some combination but the energy here is fantastic. Refined but relaxed and fits in well with the area.
Drink-wise, they have a fun list of cocktails alongside an impressive wine list. We started out with a round of cocktails and then each tried a glass of wine. I first got the Cellar Door (nordes gin, fermented carrot jus, aalborg, blanc vermouth), a particularly vegetal martini variation that was a little unusual but not in a way that took away from the food. My partner got the Absinthe Swizzle (absinthe, vodka, black plum, jacquere, carob, sarsaparilla) which comes in a tall glass with pebble ice, not usually my type of drink but I loved it. The wines were solid though a little less memorable.
Food-wise, we were more attracted to the small plates so got an assortment of those plus one main. A lot of variety on the menu, though I can't say there's necessary an organizing concept/theme. Overall, the preparations were as fun and creative as they were delicious. Eats, below:
Pickled Fennel and Basil Salad w/ applewood smoked bacon, toasted almonds: A+
One of the meal's highlights for me. Fennel always seems to be an underrated veggie so I appreciate seeing it highlighted here in peak season.
Citrus Cured Fish Crudo w/ fermented farro, cucumber vinaigrette: A-
Though I'm only writing this review five days after the meal, the essence of this dish is not readily coming back to me. I remember that we both enjoyed it but it was definitely the least memorable of the bunch.
Grass-Fed Bison Tartare w/ calabrian chile "gochujang", house einkorn focaccia: A
My partner and I are both relatively picky when it comes to beef/bison tartare so we rarely order it. That said, I read enough rave reviews beforehand that we had to try it. I tend to trust my fellow foodies. And in this case, they did not lead us astray. This preparation was thoughtful in conception and very well-executed, with great savory/umami elements and the hint of heat that's always a hit in beef/bison tartare dishes.
Butternut Squash Grits w/ kohlrabi-pine nut caponata, stracciatella: A
We tacked this one on at the end because we ordered a little light to start. I was surprised that this even piqued my interest because I tend not to like grits because of the texture. Though the texture was still what you'd expect, the dish as a whole was kind of genius in that it made no sense to me but the flavors were fantastic. I love kohlrabi and once again I can give Arvine props for using what's in season.
Roasted Golden Tilefish w/ leeks vinaigrette, hazelnuts, champagne sauce: A
The one main we ordered, which was melt in your mouth good. The fish was buttery and cooked to perfection and the sauce was just heavenly. Tilefish has a touch of sweetness to it that other white fish varieties don't, the flavors here really complemented in beautifully.
Close to five stars, but I reserve that rating for spots that blow me away at every turn, so let's say it's a strong 4.5. read more