We came to celebrate my friend's birthday and Osteria Mozza certainly meets the criteria of an old school fine dining Italian establishment. It is quite a large operation with the hustle and bustle of many service staff and patrons.
Our menu for the evening included the following: focaccia di recco ( w/ stracchino cheese), mozzarella di bufala & condimenti (basil pesto, romesco,
black olive tapenade & caperberry relish), grilled octopus (potato, celery, scallion & lemon), tagliolini (36-month white cow parmigiano reggiano,
white alba truffles), tagliatelle (bolognese), mafaldine (oxtail ragù), braised lamb neck (Anson Mills polenta, preserved lemon & Castelvetrano olives), bistecca alla Fiorentina (dry-aged, bone-in porterhouse), rosemary olive oil cakes (olive oil gelato & rosemary brittle), butterscotch budino (caramel sauce, crème fraiche & maldon sea salt), coconut straciatella gelato pie (Douro almonds & hot fudge), and a fruit sorbetti.
I was doing my research prior to visiting (through other reviews and speaking with a previous diner), and what I discovered was that this establishment is heavy handed with the salt. Having known that, I requested that the focaccia di recco be served with the salt on the side, and that preemptive request fulfilled exactly my desire to not have it overly salted. I enjoyed it and if you are with a larger party, I suggest you order it.
The mozzarella di bufala had the four condiments as stated above; unfortunately there was only one serving spoon for all four condiments. I wish the service staff would have been more cognizant of this and served all of them with separate spoons as the flavor profile of each condiment were very different. These are details that should be fully accounted for prior to each plate arriving to the table; instead, diners would have to request this after the fact.
The grilled octopus, although smaller in portion, was tender and delicious with a pronounced smoky flavor throughout. The accoutrements of the cooler potato, celery, scallion, and lemon worked well to contrast the heavier smokiness of the octopus. I may have dinged this review by another star if this dish was poorly executed, but luckily it met the mark.
I took a bite of the very expensive white truffle tagliolini, and it was simply divine. Perfectly al dente, decadently rich, lusciously coated with the viscous sauce, and perfumed with the beautiful fragrant shavings of white truffle. It wasn't plagued with the over-salinity issue as with some of the other dishes this evening. If we come again, I will definitely opt for this pasta dish over the bolognese and other red sauces.
The salinity was very pronounced in the bolognese and the porterhouse. The heavy flakes of salt made certain bites of the porterhouse overly salty (such as the ends and corners) but the larger cuts towards the center of it were spot-on. Had this salt been disbursed more evenly, it would have been much more ideal. I did however greatly enjoy the texture of the tagliatelle, thin ribbons of perfectly al dente pasta; it served as a perfect vessel for the rich and salty bolognese. However, because of the salinity of the bolognese, I did not finish it on its own after I consumed all the pasta. I actually originally requested the tagliatelle to be paired with the oxtail ragù; a manager later came and very politely explained that each pasta was tailor formulated for each respective sauce.
The porterhouse itself was cooked to a perfect medium rare and imparted a rich beef flavor in each bite. Again, if this flake salt had been toned down and applied more evenly, it would have been perfect. I highly suggest the braised lamb neck; it was slide off the bone tender and succulent.
The desserts were quite enjoyable. The rosemary olive oil cakes had a crispy exterior, were served warm, and were soft on the interior. The gelato cake was thick, rich, not too sweet, and featured a delicious cocoa crust; the almonds swimming in the hot fudge sauce were a nice, nutty, and crunchy contrast to the cold and smooth gelato. The butterscotch budino was actually quite rich and substantial; this is definitely tailored for someone with more of a sweet tooth. The fruit sorbetti featured a large pizzelle and was more tart than sweet; good for those that want to finish the meal on a lighter note.
Having said all the above, I had to ding a star because of the seasoning (which wasn't completely consistent and heavy handed with the salt at times) and the lack of detail with the serving utensils. Otherwise, I would rate the service as fairly attentive and consistent despite how busy the staff were. Also be forewarned, this is not a quiet restaurant and the noise level can deter some for those who prefer a more tranquil and peaceful setting like a Japanese omakase counter.
Lastly, street parking can be a challenge so be prepared and go early; if not, opt for the garage parking (which is quite expensive of course) around the corner. read more