*ppffffffffffft pffffffffft* (well, that was a bit more flatulent than usual)
"Very good, now can you blow a B flat?"
So this is it, I am now the 3rd trombone in the stage band.
Repressed memories bite in weird ways as I thought back at my high school days while munching on cold fermented veggies - back in the heady days of the early 90s when cellphones were analog bricks and a PC was a beige tower with an IBM logo embossed upon it, I was once a shot nosed, pudgey asian kid. I thought a Trombone will help me talk to girls (go with a guitar or a ukelele instead), and since I wasn't selected for the computer club, I ended up at stage band class at my NYC specialized high school.
When you don't really care enough about playing to be good at it, you are going to sound mediocre, and when half the room is also winging it, the results were merely tolerable. After the band performance at an assembly there's a potluck, and they are ready-made, heat-and-eat affairs with items from CostCo or Boston market. It's a checkmark on someone's calendar, an obligation to be fulfilled without much passion or excitement. Just like the students' dispassionate stage band attendance, their boughie parents are feeding the class with an easy "out" - when I grew up in Corona the poorer kids and their parents did their own cooking, and I had some really spectacular food during the school potluck days. In the presence of affluence you trade quality for convenience and lost a sense of thoughtfulness...
All of that rushed back into my head when me and the missus ended up in front of a fancy-ish storefront in Suburban Douglaston at what was formerly an Italian sunday gravy joint (Giadinero?) but now as a Korean eatery. Something seems off though...It's 1p Sunday - where's the customers, and why is it so devoid of the aroma of food? Kimchi is essentially the resurrected Kumgangsan, a former restaurant chain with locations at midtown K-town and downtown Flushing. They had a banchan store called Jangchi Jangchi but they went away during the 2020 pandemic. They promised a 10 dollar Kimchi sampling menu with rice, soup and noodles - this sounds great in early 2025...but is it worth it?
Taken from a perspective of a community service joint, yeah, you won't leave hungry as it's all-you-can-eat. But if it's intricacies of Korean cuisine that you desire? Not so much. It's not that the cooking is bad, it's unexciting - for a tasting menu where you hope to taste the difference in kimchee varieties they are all about the same - fresh, cold, sour, but none particularly spicy, salty, funky or interesting. If your Korean auntie made something like this and she was told by her doctor to go easy on the salt or sugar for health reasons, you'll nod then gratefully enjoy. However, this is from an actual kimchi store and It's definitely very mild tasting. The same can be said about the shitake mushrooms and daikon banchan - the daikon is "soft enough for grandma" and both it and the mushrooms tasted like they fished it out of something else and marinated to recycle the ingredients.
In addition to the 10 dollar kimchee tasting menu they also can serve you seollongantang, Galbi, bokkeum (squid) or the kalchi (grilled fish) at the typical price for a normal Korean sitdown with soju and a full menu, but they don't seem to have much turnover nor excitement. It felt like your Korean auntie's retiree cafeteria - to reinforce that assertion, when we ordered some steamed pork dumpling we got something that's a bit more bland and watery than expected, kinda like the challah and matzo ball soup at a diner frequented by retirees.
We didn't go for their jarred kimchee afterwards as it was too plain for our likings. If we pass the area and want to get something cheap and filling, we might stop by...but with so many choices in the area it'll be tough to convince us to return soon...It was like sitting down in front of the band practice room with a trombone without much drive or excitement for it.
Definitely an overly flatulent C minor... read more