Handline
It was a stressful Tuesday. I had driven 240 miles, mom was in the hospital, and I was holding dad's hand. We needed some nurturing. We needed some sustenance! The Handline was right down the road from where my mother was residing inpatient. Best of all I was craving fish and so my dad obliged me by finding a place for fish. If you want fish and you are in Sebastopol, then this place is it. They bill themselves as fresh and coastal. And boy, are they!
The Handline is a converted Frosty Freeze I think, anyway they continue to have the walk up window which is where you place your order. Any other resemblance to a walk-up-take-your-food-out kind of place stops there. First of all the setting. You walk up to this little food joint, and the landscaping is exquisitely done. The hard scape is restful, and the plantings are unusual with lots of airy grasses that give it a coastal type of feeling. There are places to dine in and also sit out.
My father and I walked up to the window and the menu is very straightforward, two sides of a large heavy card stock type page with all of the menu items and choices deliciously described. We wanted fish tacos. So that's what we ordered. We both ordered El Coronado, The beer battered and cooked by fire whitefish, rockfish, with chipotle aioli, avocado and cabbage. It sounds somewhat unassuming. So we wandered over to pour ourselves a glass of water from their two dispensers. The nice thing about this place is that it has plain, read that flat, water and also sparkling, read that mineral water. In addition to the water stations, there is also a bar. Unfortunately since I didn't order an alcoholic drink I can't provide a full description of what types of alcohol they serve, whether it's just beer and wine or whether it's a full bar. Note to self: explore that in future!
We took our seats with our number in hand and set that on the table. The seating was lovely as all of the tables are a 6 inch thick wood that's been polished to a warm shine and gives the restaurant quite a warm feeling inside. Anyway as we waited, we didn't have long to wait at all because our order came right out. These fish tacos were served on corn tortillas that we're actually sort of the average size, about 6 inches to 7 inches in diameter. The beer battered rockfish was absolutely exquisite. The beer battering was very light, crunchy and not oily or greasy. The fish was tender and sweet. It lay on a bed of avocado with the chipotle aioli. You would not really know that it was chipotle, however, because it did not knock your socks off with any sort of heat. The fish lay on top of the avocado and then the cabbage, which was beautifully chopped not in a square chop but with a fine slicing and graced it so that you didn't have to crunch through heavy pieces of cabbage. It was the perfect texture to provide a foil to the fish. On the table was a bottle of mango-colored hot sauce. We tried it. It was very flavorful. About 3/4 of the way through tasting this hot sauce, the back of your mouth starts to tingle as the heat kicks in. Later, while we were eating, a gentleman came by; he was either the owner or Manager and asked how we were doing. We explained about the food as we were so delighted, and also asked about the hot sauce. He indicated that it was a habanero hot sauce. He did describe a few of the ingredients that were in it, but I don't recall what they are and I'm not sure how they were able to obtain the creamy texture that they had created without having any actual dairy or cream in the sauce itself. I don't recall ever having habanero sauce previously, as I don't like super spicy food. But this was divine. And I didn't overpower the fish or take away from any of the flavorings of the dish.
My father also really enjoyed his fish dish. He, in fact, exclaimed that he had not previously had much of an opinion about this restaurant but now he was completely bowled over. We enjoyed ourselves immensely, our bellies were filled in a satisfying and culinarily tempting fashion, and we went away very happy customers. Run, don't walk, to the Handline. You won't regret it. read more