Chef Doug Robson is someone well known enough in this town to bear the burden of expectations. Gallo Blanco was a breakout sensation back in its original location on the bottom floor of the Clarendon Hotel. It was relatively small, had a hip modern urban feel, and (while limited in its selection) served quality tacos, tortas and other Mexican staples. It was so successful that Robson later opened another restaurant in CenPho (Otro Cafe). After an unknown dispute with the hotel owner however, Gallo Blanco abruptly shuttered in 2015. Gallo Blanco fans rejoiced when Robson decided to reopen his first restaurant on the northeast corner of 10th Street & Pierce. But would the new location measure up to the original? On a Sunday at dinner time, I decided to judge for myself.
The new location is in the century old American Way Market building that had long been abandoned. Robson has meticulously restored the building into a beautiful space which has patio seating on the east and west ends of the building. The interior is segmented in two, with the restaurant on the north side of the interior and the bar area on the south side. I grabbed a seat at the bar area as I was here alone for dinner, but also because of the natural lighting of the windows that look out towards Pierce Street. Just FYI, here you grab a menu at the front counter and then sit wherever you want.
I had neglected to visit Gallo Blanco when the new location first opened, but that quickly changed after sampling a pancake dessert taco at the Devour Culinary Festival that was out of this world. Having seen that Gallo Blanco does in fact serve a dessert pancake, that was all the motivation I needed to make the one mile walk over here from my apartment. But first, let's not get ahead of ourselves. First there must be a drink. In this case, I ordered GB's house margarita. Tequila, triple sec, lime, and agave. I wouldn't say GB's version is really distinctive in any noticeable way, but a refreshing marg nevertheless. Now then, let's get some dinner. I've had GB's tortas, tacos, and even a few burritos back at their old location, so for this visit I decided to take a look at their house specials. One dish I was curious about was their Pescada Del Dia (Fish of the Day). Today the fish special was Mexican Grouper. Sold. The dish also comes with rice and beans, but not just your a-typical rice and beans. The rice is jasmine rice mixed with corn, tomatillo salsa and cilantro. The beans are locally sourced beans from McClendon Farms in Goodyear and are topped with a sprinkling of cotija cheese. The fish was excellent. Grilled perfectly with a nice flaky savory finish and the rice and beans were both solid accompaniments.
Now then, let's talk about that dessert. Sadly, the pancake dessert here isn't the same recipe Doug used during the Devour competition (that recipe incorporated horchata ice cream), but their Flapjacks dessert nevertheless looked like a can't miss. Two full size pancakes topped with butter, maple syrup, whipped cream, banana, and candied peanuts. I'm a little disappointed that this dish didn't have any Mexican infused notes like their competition dessert did, but the pancakes were certainly tasty despite that fact.
Total cost for the margarita, food, tax, and tip came to $45. The food, the prices, and the atmosphere are slightly more upscale compared to other valley Mexican restaurants. I don't mind paying extra if the food measures up. In the case of GB's current operation I think the food is worth it...mostly. You can certainly get great quality Mexican food all over town for cheaper than here. But between the tortas, house specials, and even the sides, there's plenty here at GB that stands out from its competition. Between Gallo Blanco and Welcome Diner (which is soon to open its new location across the street from Gallo Blanco), the Garfield neighborhood is now on the map in the valley's endlessly expanding restaurant scene. Props to Doug Robson for saving a landmark in the process of resurrecting his beloved first restaurant. Now if he'd just resurrect that horchata ice cream dessert recipe, it'll be full steam ahead. read more