My husband Matt B. and I are total suckers for cute hipster bars with complicated $15 cocktails, so when we made dinner plans with friends in Williamsburg, we decided to gather everyone up early for a couple rounds at Fresh Kills Bar. We hadn't heard of it or anything (we live in L.A.), but it was the top hit for bars in Williamsburg on Yelp, and it looked like it was designed to trap us. It turned out to be even better than we expected.
We walked in just after 6:00 on a Saturday last month, when the sun was still shining. The place was adorable, small and charmingly decorated, with textured walls and artful light fixtures, leather banquette seating and cozy wooden booths. The windows let in plenty of natural light. There was already a solid crowd going when we arrived, which I'm guessing means it gets crazy during peak hours.
Matt and I got there first, and were able to grab one of the tiny tables lining the front of the bar, draped in an attractive structured covering that looked like a leather bottle cap. We were helped by a fantastic host/server, who looked out for us when we told her we had four more people coming. We moved to a corner with two bottle cap tables when that spot cleared, and when a booth freed up, she saved it for us. Really above and beyond for a busy bar. We were also able to order drinks from her without going to the bar, which made it easy for us to just sit back and hang out in our nice, spacious booth.
The cocktails were outstanding. We were there during happy hour, but we actually got drinks off the main menu--the happy hour drinks seemed less interesting, less discounted than they were just cheaper cocktails. There were fourteen cocktails on this menu, a mix of Fresh Kills originals and drinks borrowed or adapted from other bars or vintage recipes. I enjoyed that all the drinks were attributed, like orchestral pieces. Fancy as fuck.
I loved every one I tried. We drank all three of the "built in a glass over a rock" section of the menu, and these were all superb. The Malocchio (Richard Boccato, Fresh Kills, 2017) was a smooth, boozy cocktail made with orange and chocolate bitters, Averna, coffee liqueur, mezcal, Calvados, and an orange twist. It tasted like one of those nice orange dark chocolates, which I know might sound kind of weird but worked spectacularly well. The In the Pines (Richard Boccato, 2017) (I guess Richard Boccato is their guy) was a lovely, balanced drink with a bitter herbal touch, with genepy, Aperol, blanc vermouth, Singani 63, and an orange twist. The Hat in Hand (Alicia Lombardo, Raines Law Room, 2015) was a brilliant use of cognac and dark rum, strong and mellow, enhanced with sea salt, Angostura bitters, banana liqueur, and an orange twist.
The others were shaken cocktails, and both of these were Fresh Kills interpretations of old recipes, from decades before the $15 cocktail renaissance. The Madhatter (Ted Saucier, "Bottoms Up", 1951) was a refreshing whiskey drink, made with fresh lemon and lime juices, rye, and an absinthe rinse, served up with a wedge of lime. The Bourbon Gun Club (adapted from "Original Polynesian Tropical Bar Recipes", Dick Moano, 1963) seems to be a favorite, and for good reason. It's a sweet, easy, creamy, delicious cocktail, with fresh lemon juice, passionfruit purée, honey, cinnamon, bourbon, and egg white, served down with a wheel of lemon. I'll bet a pitcher of this would make a dinner party fun and sloppy.
I'm glad we were able to check out Fresh Kills while we were in New York. It was a fantastic bar, full scores for ambiance, service, and cocktails. I'd go back immediately if I lived in or around Williamsburg. read more