Full disclosure: I found E-Mo by looking it up on Yelp.
By that token, then, this modest Koreatown restaurant is not really a hole-in-the-wall establishment, since-if 106 reviews averaging 4 out of 5 stars is any indication-it is well known and well liked by dozens of New Yorkers who stop by Midtown for lunch. But in all other respects, it doesn't get much more hole-in-the-wall than this: the room is barely wide enough for customers to line up in front of the cash register alongside those who have already received their orders and are leaning against a waist-high shelf to eat their food (no stools are provided; they just wouldn't fit). Aside from framed pictures of menu items hanging from the yellow walls, the only other decor consists of a wooden shelf of Korean instant ramen.
On the day that I decided to visit E-Mo, a Korean music festival happened to be occurring in the streets of Koreatown, and I spent a couple minutes weaving through the growing crowd and blasting K-pop in search of my lunch. E-Mo, curiously titled "Oz Deli" also, stood out in beige letters on a large but plain awning overlooking the restaurant. The throngs of rushed Manhattanites I had braced myself to see were surprisingly absent; presumably, on weekends E-Mo's primary clientele chooses to lunch elsewhere.
Walking inside, I found myself facing one middle-aged woman working the cash register, a middle-aged man behind her rolling a bamboo mat, and a hefty plastic sign on which the menu was printed. The only food E-Mo sells is kimbab, the Korean answer to sushi. Thin sheets of dried seaweed are wrapped around rice and a variegated filling of meat or fish and colorful veggies. At E-Mo, ten varieties are listed on the menu, ranging from the predictable "spicy tuna kimbab" and "kimchi kimbab" to the somewhat more unusual "jalapeno kimbab" and "cheese kimbab."
I played it safe and ordered the beef kimbab. While I waited for about five minutes for the chef to prepare my lunch, the two other customers in the store chatted casually to the cashier in Korean, pausing occasionally to eat a piece of their food. My kimbab was presented to me in a Styrofoam takeout box along with a small bowl of miso soup drawn from the tap.
My roll of kimbab consisted of twelve pieces, fitted snugly in the box. The beef in the kimbab was well seasoned: salty, but not too much, and not at all greasy, as tends to be the case with other Korean fast-food style joints. The yellow pickled daikon was crisp and only slightly sweet, a welcome contrast to the beef. I could see carrot and a dark leafy vegetable in the roll but couldn't really taste them; I assume they served a primarily aesthetic purpose. I found a small clump of pickled radish in the kimbab to be extraordinarily salty, but when eaten together with all the other ingredients (as kimbab is supposed to be eaten), the overall flavor was light and mild, with a pleasing variety in texture. Nothing original here, but a decent (and probably healthy) lunch. I should mention as well that the miso soup was pretty generic, though this of course was intended only as a side to the main dish.
I was pretty satiated by the time I finished my kimbab, though the food tasted lighter than many, many lunches I've had in the past. I can see why many New Yorkers go to E-Mo for a quick lunch, though I highly doubt it would be filling enough for dinner or a more substantial meal. Kimbab itself is intended to be light, snack-like food, and E-Mo does it well, though not in a particularly inspiring way. read more