I was late to dinner because some jackass decided to jump onto the F Train tracks at York Street and the NYPD were useless in getting him off of said tracks. The only reason I'm telling you this is to set the scene, which was mostly me walking in ravenous and in dire need of a cocktail.
And I am glad to report:
Borgo is a really fantastic place to be when you're hungry and want some sort of delicious boozy concoction and tons of fire-roasted Italian fare to wash the taste of a serious subway delay out of your mouth.
And I have yet to experience it, but I would wager that Borgo is a fantastic place to be for dinner on a regular, non-delayed evening as well.
I first want to note that the space is sexy as hell. And I can't even remember the last time I wrote the word "sexy." The staff is excellent (it helped that the owner was in the house I'm sure), and the candlestick holders are shockingly heavy (everyone knows that's the mark of a great restaurant). With a woodfire burning between the two rooms and a surprising amount of space between the tables, it feels luxurious to dine like this in Manhattan.
Our server was aware of why we were late (they sat one person in our party who informed them and showed them photos of the guy holding up the train), and knew we needed cocktails. I tried the La Scarza (a refreshingly tart tequila concoction) and the Nonna's Nonno (their self-identified version of an Old Fashioned with a scotch/brown butter/sour cherry agrodolce twist). Banging. I also drank half my wife's classic martini, because it was that kind of night.
Our party of four decided to split everything (the only way to dine, in my opinion), and we rolled with:
The Focaccia Borgo - I try to always eat things named after the restaurant, especially when it's delicious bread that can be topped with mortadella. It was the first thing I ate, and vied for the best bite of the night. It's far thinner than you think, almost a flatbread, but it's outstanding.
The fried artichokes - Well-fried and very tasty, but the gribiche they are served with stole the show.
The Fried Delicata Squash - Chili and honey are a favorite combo, but it was a tad sweet for my taste. You can't be sad about eating this, however. One of my friends said it was like dessert, but in a good way.
Anelloni - Lobster pasta is always a decadent decision, but I truly loved this sauce. I honestly don't know that I could choose between it and the
Fettuccine - The guinea hen ragu is so, so rich and delicious. They know to pair pasta and sauce here.
Whole roasted branzino - It's hard to roast a fish better than this. This was my first time out to dinner with these friends, so I didn't pick up the head and gnaw on it for every last morsel, but I wanted to, and that's what counts. The smoked chickpeas underneath were a nice touch as well.
Fennel Sausage - A thick, juicy, perfectly cooked and seasoned sausage over a bed of lentils and some kind of cabbage situation that blew me away. Stellar. Everyone was full by this point, and I got to eat more than my share. I've always said I'm a lucky man.
Truly, there wasn't one miss out of everything we ordered. The plates were beautiful, and I apologize that the sexy lighting kept the photos from being what they should be. I'm not a ring light guy, because I don't want my fellow diners to hate me.
I've been a fan of Andrew Tarlow restaurants since I was a wee lad who first bit into Diner's burger (back in 2009). They are reliably warm, hospitable, and most importantly, delicious, and Borgo is no exception. The cost here veers into special occasion territory, but I thought dinner was worth the price of admission, and I'd gladly come back. Especially for that focaccia. read more