tl;dr skip the signature breakfast burritos for the standout "rip & dip" sourdough bagels; they are worth the effectively $20 minimum
Wake and Late made a name for itself on the basis of breakfast burritos. But the window service-only DTLA shack (barely bigger than a studio apartment) understandably couldn't support owner Ben Richter's vision of an expanded cafe menu. That's where the new outpost in Pasadena comes into play. Posted up within the 10,000-square-foot ground floor of the historic Pasadena Star-News, this location now houses Wake and Late's entire bakery operation, specializing specifically in "rip & dip" sourdough bagels.
Walk through the opulent double doors immediately to the marble checkout counter. The butcher block-accented pastry display is minimally stocked with a daily selection of baked goods. To the left, mismatched wooden chairs are pressed up against grey patio tables A line of screen panels separates the dining area from the vast kitchen and bakery. The few additional seats within the order pickup area to the right are far outnumbered by the mob of queuing patrons. The aroma of bacon dominates the air, and retro tunes echo around the sky-high, minimally decorated walls.
My partner and I arrived mid-morning for weekend breakfast, and we were surprised by the line stretching out the door. After ordering, we faced a 15-minute wait, as orders were called out sequentially. We were handed a nondescript paper bag, warm from the freshly cooked treats within. The bagels were shaped more like softballs, sporting a slightly crispy blistered crust and pillowy sourdough heart. Of our duo, I preferred the flavor-forward Sweet Onion, but the rich, salty Parm was no slouch either. Our sides of cream cheese were portioned in separate takeout cups, and the generous portions never left me needing to ration. The Lox CC had a moderate portion of salmon, and an otherwise subdued dill-forward flavor; I was partial to the bold Scallion CC.
I returned one sleepy weekday morning to sample the signature Steak Burrito. Right off the bat, I recognized the premium components wrapped within a thin yet sturdy tortilla. I was most impressed with the tender, well-marinated carne asada and the extra crispy tater tots. The fresh avocado chunks were a welcome addition, but they would have been better in thinner, bite-sized slices. The fried eggs were fine but I would have preferred the eggs to be scrambled and fluffy. The side of hot sauce brought a rich heat but left me wanting more acidity. And, most notably, the sushi roll-sized portion failed to fill my decent appetite.
Wake and Late institutes an eyebrow-raising $20 price floor (the minimum food order is 2 bagels and 2 spreads). The burritos, while tasty, are not reasonably worth the premium; on the other, the still-steaming bagels are a strong contender for the best in LA and are worth the pretty penny. read more