I'm not here to make arguments against what The Odeon clearly is. It is, without a doubt, a true New York City classic. It's cemented its place in Gael Greene's list of the most important restaurants in the past 40 years [1], is emblazoned on the cover of McInerney's "Bright Lights, Big City", and has seen its fair share of celebrity brawls and late night binges. The restaurant was initially built in 1980 by Keith McNally, Brian McNally (Keith's brother), and Lynn Wagenknecht, and although ownership has since transferred solely to the last of the trio, it continues to carry the weight of the McNally name. At first glance, the restaurant has the appearance of a retro diner; enter, though, and you'll be greeted by décor that merges that concept with a French brasserie.
Our evening got off to a rocky start as, despite the existence of a reservation for our party of 4, we weren't seated until nearly half an hour later. Thankfully, the hostess was gracious enough to offer each of a complimentary drink from their bar as an apology. which helped wile away the remainder of the time. Once we were led to our four top and seated, menus were quickly brought out and we set out to the difficult task of choosing what to order. The Odeon's menu is very broad, spanning a variety of dishes typical of a diner (burgers, sandwiches, omelettes, and the like) as well as more complicated dishes, including a tempting Duck Confit and Steak Frites. There's a dish that will suit almost any palate, although the prices definitely skew towards the higher end.
First to arrive were the starters for the table. The Salt Cod Croquettes were satisfactory at best, four crisp fritters that were filled with a warm mixture of cod and potato. A stronger order was was the Country Frisée Salad, which took the foolproof combination of crispy lardons, a poached egg, and Fourme d'ambert cheese over a bed of frisée drizzled with bacon vinaigrette. While it may be deemed a salad, it's a misleading category as few salads have the richness and depth of flavor as this plate.
Perhaps unsurprisingly, I went with the simple Burger as my main. The patty is a Pat LaFrieda blend of chuck and short rib which is rubbed with chopped garlic and grilled over charcoal; an additional $2 will add on a slice of melted cheese. Sandwiched between two halves of a lightly charred challah bun sprinkled with sesame seeds, it makes for a well-rounded bite. I will note that it was cooked closer to well done instead of my requested medium rare and that the meat was surprisingly loosely packed. The flavor, especially given the abundance of garlic, is certainly present however. A side of shoestring fries round out the carbohydrates, and I had no complaints about their crispness or temperature. For those with more substantial appetites, however, the Leg of Lamb is quite the impressive plate, especially when served with Acini di pepe in a tomato sauce, carrots, and olives.
We couldn't leave without opting for dessert, and the Apple Pecan Crumble Tart was a satisfying finish, served with a generous scoop of Vanilla Ice Cream on the side. The tart portion was a little too crumbly for my liking, but it wasn't too sweet, and the crushed pecans made for a unique texture. Also worth mentioning is their Crème Brûlée, although from the spoonful I tried, the crust could have been a little thicker and crisper for a more satisfying contrast against the custard.
As a whole, I think The Odeon is "A-OK". The food has its hits and misses, but more than anything, this venue has a deep and often overlooked mark in the history of this city. Despite the fact that a recent fire in the overhead residences have forced the restaurant to close for a few days [2], I'm sure it'll remain an institution in the years to come.
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[1] http://nymag.com/anniversary/40th/50684
[2] http://tribecacitizen.com/2015/02/07/in-the-news-fire-above-the-odeon read more