[Review #802; 1 of 2]
2024-001
I wanted my 1st review of the year to be special & need some time to draft this lengthy one of Sushi Sonagi. Korean-American Chef Daniel Son takes over Kanpachi's spot this past spring, serving up an inspired Japanese-Korean omakase sushi bar style. I was absolutely thrilled to discover Sushi Sonagi making way to the South Bay, his hometown in Gardena!! I did some research, & Chef Son has impressive mentorships that includes: Kura Fine Japanese Cuisine (with his father, Sonny Son), Copenhagen's Noma, San Mateo's Yoshizumi, Tokyo's Nihonryori RyuGin.
Food Order:
18 COURSE OMAKASE: CHAWANMUSHI (ikura shoyuzuke, SB uni, gamtae), ANKIMO TART (astrea kaluga caviar), MASABA SANDO (mackerel sandwich inspired by Gion Rohan), BURI (wild yellowtail), ONAGADAI (ruby snapper), SHIMA AJI (striped jack), SHIRO EBI (baby white shrimp), KINMEDAI (golden eye snapper), SAWARA (king mackerel), SUMAGATSUO (striped skipjack tuna), CARABINEROS (scarlet shrimp), GANJANG GEJANG MAKI (soy cured crab roll), UNI (sea urchin), ANAGO (sea eel), DOLSOT SEKOGANI (female snow crab), DUNGENESS CRAB SOUP (shingiku, yuzu), MISO BUTTER ATSUYAKI TAMAGO (miso butter omelet), YUZU PUDDING (mandarin ice)
Servers: Chef Daniel Son & Janet (his wife)
Service: Attentive, friendly, intimate setting (8-seats only); Tock reservations may be hard to come by on a 30-day rolling calendar that opens at midnight for Fridays - Sundays: 5:30 PM or 7:45 PM. It took me 5 months before I secured a spot in 01/2024. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Menu: Omakase only; no substitutions or food allergy accommodations.
The restaurant is located in a strip mall, off Artesia Blvd. & Normandie Ave., with plenty of parking. This was my food sibling's Christmas present, though it took awhile to secure a reservation. Arriving early, we could see Chef Son inside but the door was locked. Another diner informed me that they will open right on the dot. Door unlocks promptly at 7:45 PM, we're ushered in, coats stored in bins on the bench behind our seat, & drink orders are taken within minutes.
Though half of the diners are repeats, Chef Son introduces himself & 1st course: Chawanmushi, an egg custard dish topped with ikura shoyuzuke (marinated salmon roe), SB uni (Santa Barbara uni is highly sought after; considered better than Hokkaido uni that even Japan imports from SB), gamtae (seaweed) that's beautifully presented in a tea cup, noting the New Year. Its consistency is similar to Chinese steamed eggs (sweet), but this is more savory with an ocean freshness from the roe, uni, & seaweed.
His Korean-influenced omakase menu is a series of nigiri & prepared dishes, paying homage to traditional Japanese techniques while representing L.A. & other cultural influences, both breaking yet honoring traditions & techniques. One of his techniques is dry-aging fish (my first via 07/2021 Rustic Canyon x The Joint partnership), a preservation method that pulls water from flesh in a dry, temperature-controlled environment, improving taste & texture for a more developed & richer flavor, while extending shelf life. Cleaner & sweeter taste, with a more melt-in-your-mouth buttery texture. Mmm... Mmm... Mmm!!
Most of our menu was sourced from Japan along with Torrance farmer's market local produce. Chatting with Chef Son, all your senses are aroused from the love & passion for his craft. I love this intimate setting where I can watch up close & personal as this sushi master lovingly prepare each course (I posted several videos). Several nigiris were carefully painted with sauce. To maintain the cool temp of the Shiro Ebi, he used kkaennip (Korean sesame leaf) to shape the nigiri. If dolsot (Korean stone bowl) is on the menu... the wondrous smells of crunchy rice deliciousness wafting in the dining space stirs your gut in anticipation; I'm still heady remembering it as I write this review. And when he turned on the burner to toast the tamago (rolled omelette)... the charred brought up notes of baking. Even something as simple as cooking rice, there's so much trial & error from the types of rice, types of water, & cooking methods. Did you know there's a difference in color for male (lighter) & female (darker) uni, & that males are sweeter & have a smoother texture where as females are saltier & firmer?
If you're a sushi aficionado, Sushi Sonagi is an absolute must!! Part 2 to follow shortly, delving on each course. Oishii-desu!!! read more