(3.75/5) Buckle up because this one is going to be long... St. Lawrence is a Michelin-starred yet warm and approachable French-Canadian restaurant located in the Downtown Eastside. I have waited a LONG time to try this restaurant as I couldn't find the time (or the budget). My friend made a reservation for the cabane à sucre menu, and as a lover of maple syrup, I was very excited.
Upon arrival, we were greeted in French, and all of a sudden, I felt the need to dig up all (or none) of the French I had retained during elementary and high school. I liked that the restaurant had a cozy cabin feeling with dark wooden tables/chairs, small cutlery, and red checkered napkins. We were served starters before deciding on the set menu items. The fois gras custard was a huge standout. The jelly on top, assumed to be maple syrup, blended seamlessly with the foie gras. I was also intrigued by the pea soup with smoky flavours from the ham hock.
For context, the menu features a few choices for each course. Since we had 4 people, we had the opportunity to enjoy all the menu items. We also selected an additional appetizer to share and chose upgrades for a few of the courses.
The first course featured 3 dishes and the add-on appetizer. Since the starters were so pleasant, I was disappointed when only 2 of the 4 dishes met my expectations. The eclair pastry with duck liver mousse was a pleasant addition with savoury (mousse) and sweet (cherry wine sauce) flavours. We also liked the terrine of the day, which was pork, prunes, and hazelnut in pastry. However, I was disappointed with the steelhead trout on dill cream and rye bread. The bread is hard with a lot of texture, and I found it overwhelming paired with the rest of the ingredients. We also did not enjoy the ham en gelee on top of the celeriac. It was too disorganized in terms of ingredients and texture.
When the second course came along, I was hoping things would go upwards from here. Luckily, all of the second courses were delightful in my books. The gruyere-stuffed pasta, unfortunately, came with one single pasta (yes fine dining you got me again). However, it was soft and tasty and paired well with the warm onion-maple broth poured underneath. The duck pastrami was also tender. The lobster and scallop terrine was soft, fluffy, and delicious. I definitely drank all of the bisque left in the bowl, as it had just a hint of maple syrup. I was most surprised by the buckwheat crepe. Although it did not sound like much, it was a culinary masterpiece of flavours and textures. The mushroom ragout went very well with the crepe and the smoothness of the cheese sauce.
Afterwards, the third course came along, and it left me overall satisfied. I had selected the sablefish, which I very much enjoyed. The maple had a mild, sweet flavour, and surprisingly, I liked the baked beans. I also tried roasted rabbit for the first time. I'm not sure if I'll try it again, given that I see rabbits outside my workplace every week, but it was tasty with stuffing inside. I also tried aligot potato puree for the first time, and wow, I did not know I could have stretchy cheese mashed potatoes! The potatoes paired well with the sauce. The venison was not my entree of choice, but I nibbled a small bite and found the meat tender and paired well with the red wine sauce.
Finally, dessert was the favourite part of my night. The rice pudding was a dessert shared between two, and it was so enjoyable (not too sweet)! I really liked the texture and addition of the maple-shaped cookie and candied nuts. I found the tart a bit too sweet for my liking, but the profiterole (choux pastry) with delicious tea custard inside was a win for me. The added bits of apple were a good texture choice.
There was an interesting choice of cocktails and drinks, and although I did not order any, there were no major standout comments from my party.
The Michelin star is well-deserved, as I could see the careful craftsmanship in each dish and the thought that went into it. I also appreciate that the vibe of the restaurant did not feel pretentious or overbearing whatsoever. The service was smooth and friendly. Although I was disappointed with some of the dishes, the dining experience was positive overall. This is not $200 I can spend often, but I am grateful for the experience! read more