Few chefs in Toronto command the recognition of Masaki Saito. His reputation rests on extraordinary craftsmanship and precision, but as his restaurant portfolio expands, I find myself wondering whether those standards can carry across so many concepts. Between MSSM's rapid growth, new openings, and Sushi Masaki Saito's loss of one of its two Michelin stars, the question has become difficult to ignore. My experience at Ramen Tabetai did little to ease those concerns.
Tabetai draws inspiration from Jiro-style ramen, a Tokyo-born style defined by excess: thick, rugged noodles, substantial cuts of pork, mountains of vegetables, garlic, and pork fat. Where other styles pursue delicacy, Jiro embraces indulgence. As a newcomer to the style, I was curious to see Saito's interpretation.
Diners can adjust their toppings, and I opted for 100% of everything. We ordered the miso and tomato ramen, both departures from Jiro's traditional pork-and-shoyu foundation.
The noodles were my first disappointment. Jiro-style noodles are typically thick and irregular, with a rough surface and substantial chew. Tabetai's were wavy but relatively thin, barely al dente, and lacking the firm resistance that makes the noodles such a defining part of the experience.
The miso broth fared little better. Rather than letting the pork, garlic, and back fat develop distinct but complementary flavours, the miso seemed to overwhelm them. Miso isn't inherently incompatible with Jiro-style ramen, but I wished for a more traditional interpretation that allowed those elements to work in harmony. Musoshin's kotteri ramen, while not Jiro-style, demonstrates how richness can remain satisfying without losing the character of its components. Tabetai never quite achieved that balance.
The tomato ramen was more perplexing. Its pronounced tomato and basil notes immediately recalled Italian pasta sauce served as broth. I'm not opposed to unconventional combinations, but novelty needs a culinary purpose. Here, the sweetness of the vegetables amplified an already sweet tomato broth, muting the acidity and savoury depth that might have brought it into balance. Rather than complementing the Italian influences, the Jiro-style toppings seemed to pull the dish in competing directions.
The pork was generous but similarly underwhelming. Although it separated reasonably along its fibres, it lacked the tenderness and succulence I expected. Served as one enormous piece, it was also cumbersome to eat. The substantial cuts of pork in gamjatang came to mind, though without their yielding, moist texture. Generosity alone doesn't make a dish enjoyable.
What disappoints me isn't Saito's move into more accessible concepts. There's value in bringing different expressions of Japanese cuisine to a broader audience. But a chef whose name is synonymous with meticulous craftsmanship invites expectations of thoughtful execution, regardless of the price point. Jiro-style ramen may favour excess over restraint, but it still requires balance and care.
One meal cannot establish the quality of Saito's wider portfolio. Still, Tabetai gave me little reason to set aside my concerns. I'm curious to explore Jiro-style ramen elsewhere; I suspect there's much more to appreciate than this interpretation managed to convey.
2.75/5 read more