Without question, Moose Café is one of the more likeable family-style restaurants of recent memory. Secreted away, in the back of the huge Triad Farmer's Market, is this unpretentious gem of a restaurant. Despite its location, however, it was very easy to find.
Within three miles of the sprawling Thorndike/National Service Road airport motel complex, Moose Café is easy to reach, via either National Service or I-40 (Sandy Ridge Road exit). A large and unassuming, almost cafeteria-style dining room awaits. Breakfast, lunch and dinner are available, but we were there for their Southern country-style dinners.
Service was prompt and attentive; eager to assist, but not crowding. There is very little "fancy" about Moose Café, and that is indeed a part of its charm.
Portions of everything are large, and dinners consist-- quite typically-- of a protein and two sides. While ordering, a basket of softball-sized biscuits, and their delicious apple butter, arrived at our table. Rustic, rather than light or fluffy, the biscuits were tasty in their own right, but made special when spread with the apple butter. This is a caramel-colored apple butter of very finely diced apples, tinged with cinnamon and just a hint of vinegar and added sugar. So good was this addition that the three of us ate three full servings of it while enjoying the biscuits.
There is a wide variety of Southern and Southern-tinged entrée choices, but we each ordered the Southern Fried Chicken. There was nothing "baby chicken" about the leg quarters received, these were the size of fryer pieces in the days before over-commercialization of the poultry industry. Fresh and juicy, if a tad overcooked, but wonderful in spite of an extra minute too long in the deep fryer.
The kitchen's use of seasoning takes a more minimalist approach, and you may find yourself reaching for the salt and pepper shakers, or asking for hot sauce, vinegar or similar condiments. Remembering that you can always add, but never remove, seasoning to suit the individual tastes of each person, this was a small concession.
My side dishes were collards and cheddar grits. The collards were properly stemmed, and cooked to the point of being tender, but hardly stewed. Hiding, if not missing, was any indication of smoked pork product, yet a few dashes of hot sauce suited my tastes very well. I really enjoyed them. A bit less successful were the cheddar grits; enriched with a fair quantity of cheese, but thin in their consistency. My wife had the same observation, but gave an unconditional "thumbs up" to the cole slaw.
My mom ordered as her sides the stuffed zucchini ("nothing special") and pinto beans with chow-chow-- something she hadn't tasted previously. For northern readers, chow-chow is a slightly sweet pickled vegetable mixture-- think finely-chopped Italian gardinaire with a pinch of sugar added. The chow-chow and some coarsely-chopped white onions arrived in small plastic cups, and her opinion of the dish seemed to increase as each was added. My exposure to Southern cuisine is considerably greater than hers (albeit, with black-eyed peas, rather than pinto beans), and the small forkful that I took identified this dish as well-prepared.
We had no room remaining for desserts, although their menu descriptions and appearance on adjacent tables made this a difficult decision. Yet, perhaps the best way to end a meal didn't impact my caloric intake. Abundant dinners of very good food, with beverages, averaged about $10 per person. Where I'm from, you have to struggle to find sandwich lunches at this price point!
Is the Moose Café the best Southern country food I've ever encountered? In candor, "no," but it is on the list. Is it the best price value for Southern country food? This far north, and in the shadows of an urban area, probably "yes." What is definite is my recommendation. read more