I walked into Marea expecting to give it five stars. It seemed like my ideal restaurant, and I do still think that it has that potential. That said, our night here started horrendously. We had a late dinner reservation--9:30, post-Broadway show--and did not get seated until 10:20pm (details on this in a minute). I was ready to ream Marea and be *that* person. But of course, the folks at Marea did everything in their power to remedy the sour moods and stomachs once we were finally at our table. A meal this expensive, I expect a certain quality across the board. So as pretentious as it sounds, I expected them to bend over backwards to make up for what they pulled at the beginning of our night. Listen: once we got to looking at the menu and were relatively settled at our table, things were delightful. The drinks were delicious and the food was an oceanic masterpiece. Excellence demonstrated across all areas. Though I'm not sure I fully recovered from the damning first impression, I can also recognize that much was out of their control and the efforts made on our behalf were commendable. So four stars will do.
Man, I am just glad that I wasn't wearing heels because it was a Standing Room Only situation for nearly an hour after our arrival. We saw folks come and go, smaller parties were getting seated with great ease, jackets were checked and fetched, etc. And there we stood, a party of five, famished and frustrated. At one point one of the hostesses announced that our table was "being set as we speak" and it would "only be a couple more minutes". My my parents checked--the party was still sitting there, lingering despite a signed check. I'm not sure who I wanted to punch more--the group that was meant to have left an HOUR earlier, or the folks at Marea who were managing expectations quite poorly. I'm telling you, HANGRY is a very dangerous mood. Add in tired and you are getting a version of Molly that no one wants to see.
Should I move past this? For the sake of the character limit here, I will. But it's still inexcusable for a restaurant of this caliber.
So we sat. We sat at 10:20pm which is just stupid o'clock for dinner. I will first touch on drinks, given that we eventually ordered cocktails in the purgatory of a waiting area in front. Every cocktail we tried was superb. All perfectly balanced and executed.
My first drink was the Fidanzato Sposato (wild turkey rye, cointreau, velvet falernum, orange, club soda), which was intriguing and thoughtful, and quite dangerous. I wanted to try a spirit-forward drink for my second, so l went with the L'Ultimo Ballo (jim beam black bourbon, contratto, giffard rhubarb, chocolate bitters). Seriously delicious and surprisingly smooth. Even my bf and sister liked it and they usually react to spirit-forward drinks with that scrunchy sourpuss "when you give a baby a lemon" kind of face. Well done, Marea. And I can also speak to the Momenti Estivi (bombay gin, dolin blanc, acqua di cedro, basil, lemon), as several of my family members tried it. Refreshing, citrusy and herbaceous.
To finish off the alcohol notes, we split two bottles of wine as a table and both were fantastic. Selected carefully with the help of a somm on staff, both paired beautifully with our food.
Now onto that food. Order seafood, don't look back. Marea does it all the different ways and virtually all of it is flawless. I will only review what I tried, but I should mention that they did bring us a significant amount of comped food, from crudo to veggie sides to dessert. They tried their best to squeeze in to our good graces. Eats, below:
Ricci (santa barbara sea urchin, lardo): B
Oddly, our least favorite. I thought there was no way that this could be bad, and I was wrong. I love uni and lardo makes everything better, but something was off. Strange.
Asaggio Di Tre (tasting of three crudo) A+
Sadly I can't remember what three we tried, but all of them were fantastic. Marea touts a long list of crudos and I don't doubt that all are excellent. Light and fresh, elegant and sophisticated. Great flavor profiles across the board.
Polipo (grilled octopus, smoked potato, radish pickled red onion, chili, tonnato): A
Very well-cooked, hearty but still elegant. Again, great flavor profile here, the accompanying ingredients enhancing and elevating the octopus without overpowering it.
Astice (nova scotia lobster, burrata, basil eggplant al funghetto): A+
They brought us a double portion (one of our comped items) and man, am I glad. This was just pure decadence. Rich but still elevated.
Asparagi Bianci (grilled white asparagus, abalone, prosciutto
sea bean, green almond): A
Our only non-seafood order of the night and Marea killed this one too. Beautifully presented and equally tasty. Great diversity of flavors and textures, very creative.
Ippoglosso (halibut) A
Elegant preparation. Thoughtful ingredients, great texture, perfectly cooked/executed. A big price tag but you're getting top quality. read more