Lorenza is the latest restaurant-of-the-moment in Tijuana, having been open for only two months, with the local gentry flocking to its imposing glass doors, making a reservation sometimes impossible to come by. The restaurant is located on the second floor of Paseo Chapultepec, directly opposite the equally chic Bodega 8 "Ocho". You can enter the parking garage to Paseo Chapultepec either from Agua Caliente Boulevard or from Calle Sonora. Nonetheless, no matter where you enter, proceed to the second floor for parking.
When I entered the reception area at Lorenza for my 2:45 p.m. reservation on Saturday, it was filled with people sitting on long benches patiently waiting for tables. Happily, it is apparent the restaurant honors reservations, for despite the multitudes of waiting people, I was seated immediately.
The dining room at Lorenza is divided into several distinct spaces. There is a beautifully decorated front room, with clear colors, a bar, several live olive trees and high ceilings. A second room, more plainly decorated and occupied by families with children, is what I would dub Lorenza's "Siberia". Extending from both rooms is a covered patio that looks inviting and well-furnished, but I noted the staff refers to the patio as the "smoking section", so perhaps that area is best avoided for most of us.
it should be noted that Lorenza is a "corporate" restaurant, part of the "Grupo Los Arcos" chain, that owns several popular restaurants in the city. I do not frequent these other restaurants, since I am more focused on chef and family owned places. That may be the reason that although I have been dining in Tijuana for years, and seemingly know all the waiters, I did not initially recognize anyone when I arrived at Lorenza, since the staff has mostly been pulled from other Grupo Los Arcos establishments.
And that may have been the reason, being an "unknown" as I was, that the hostess seated me plunk in Siberia at a little table along a window that had a sliding door that continually opened and closed on my right elbow as staff and visitors went to and from the smoking patio. However, I did not make a fuss about it, for I know through long experience that knowledge about food and wine and an educated interaction with the serving staff can render the "worst" table in the restaurant into the very best.
That being said, minutes after I was seated in Siberia, a friendly face appeared standing beside my table like a welcome mirage: It was Anthuan [whom I call "Antoine"]. Antoine used to take care of me at La Moresca, a wonderful Italian restaurant on the ground floor of Paseo Chapultepec, just below Lorenza. He said he was one of the few non-Grupo Los Arcos staff members who were hired to work at Lorenza. He mentioned he was working in the coveted front room and that he expected one of his tables to be leaving in five minutes. He asked if I wanted to move up front so he could take care of me, to which I heartily agreed.
The wine list at Lorenza is a visual display of the available bottles on an I-Pad. It is divided into the countries of Mexico, France and Italy. Thereafter, you can search for reds, whites and sparkling wines as a subset. You scroll through the bottles and when you see something that interests you, you can click on a wine, and descriptive information will appear to guide you to just the right selection. The staff will also happily decant the wines at the table on request.
The menu at Lorenza places much emphasis on sashimi, ceviche, and plated main courses of fish. There are also some large cuts of meat, mostly suitable for two persons in light of the significant amount of grams of the servings.
A Carajillo Divorciado made at the table by Antoine served as a flamboyant ending to my meal, although the restaurant features about dozen desserts. I made a mental note as to the chocolate mousse with meringue drenched in an orange liqueur, which caught my attention for a subsequent visit. read more