We were only in Lisbon for five days. For three of those days, we tried to get into Lisboa Tu e Eu (the original). Unfortunately, we were a group of six, and it is a very tiny, very popular place. And I think the hostess running it didn't like my friend's face.*
However, we wandered by this second location, and I truly can't imagine the original being any better than this perfect, perfect meal. I'm so glad they opened this spot whenever they did, because we needed this food in our lives.
The room is small, and cramped, with low ceilings and adoring graffiti all over the walls. There is a section upstairs, but it was closed off (probably because the air conditioning was broken). But it's comfortable enough, and the room is filled with people sharing food and wine and just having a good time.
We ordered all the things. Grilled sardines, codfish cakes, shrimp tempura, squid salad, pica pau beef, things I can't remember...and to wash it all down, several jugs of green wine. Legitimately one of the best lunches of my life. If I could only pick two things to eat, I'd go with the pica pau (incredible sauce), and the sardines. But you truly can't go wrong.
The chef and owner, Maria, was in the house, painstakingly making sure that the rice pudding (justifiably lauded as the World's Best on some TV show she mentioned) was perfect. She came over to our table and was absolutely the sweetest lady I've ever met, in addition to being behind all this wonderful food. She insisted a sweaty delivery man sit down, catch his breath, and eat some rice pudding at the table next to us.
The best part is it was extremely affordable too. If like us you can't get into the original on the hill, maybe it's for the best, as long as you still get to eat Maria's food.
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*To be fair, his face is kind of stupid. read more