For those who don't know, Le Comptoir has become one of the most wildly popular and hyped restaurants in all of Paris. Some of the write-ups about this place warn that reservations for dinner have to be made 4-7 months in advance. Fortunately for lunch you can just walk in, which is what we did, but you have to get there just before noon when it opens, as getting there any later will require you to wait outside in a growing line. This place has been hyped to death and its chef, Yves Camdeborde, has become one of the most highly revered (or feared) in the whole city. Le Comptoir is the kind of place that's been elevated so much by all the high praise that cynics like me have to wonder whether it will actually live up to the hype.
For starters, my wife ordered a small croques monsieur with salmon and caviar, while I got the escargots (I wanted something tasty but light) and our friend got what was basically raw, sashimi-like salmon with a kind of cream and clumps of pickled onion. All three were great, but I thought my wife's was the best, hands down, as it offered a beautifully rich flavor. The way the salmon melded with the melted cheese was absolutely heavenly.
For the main dishes, my wife ordered one of the specials of the day, which was basically extremely tender chunks of stewed veal in a kind of mustard-based sauce which came with a small scoop of mustard herb ice cream on top. The waiter told her this was a special dish that doesn't make it on the menu often. It had an incredibly unique flavor - and the taste of the veal was to die for. This was bursting with flavor and was well seasoned too. The mustard sauce almost threatened to overpower the meat, but once you started chewing, the tender meat's rich, earthy flavor came through in spades. The mustard ice cream melted and fused with the sauce, adding a kind of creamy element. This was a creative, flavorful, and well conceived dish.
I opted for the braised lamb shank, which came in a sauce with a side of couscous with these massive, plump, juicy prunes and apricots. I wasn't wild about these sides at all (not because they were bad, I'm just not wild about cous cous and prunes), but the lamb shank was cooked to perfection. It did, however, need just a tiny pinch of salt, but once that was taken care of, we were in business, and this was probably one of the best (juiciest, most tender and flavorful) braised lamb shanks I've ever had in a restaurant. I even dug the bit of marrow out of the end of the bone for that little dab of intense lamb-y flavor.
Our friend ordered a lamb chop that came in a sauce with white beans and bell peppers. He was coming down with a sore throat, so we didn't sample each other's dishes, but he seemed pretty content with it.
To drink we shared a mini-bottle of house red that suited the dishes perfectly.
Overall it was an incredibly fulfilling meal. We would come back. But did it live up to the hype? Well, I can't say that these were the most mind-blowing dishes I've ever had, but they were extremely good. So, yes, it was absolutely wonderful, and it was a fun experience overall. Le Comptoir is probably best judged for its impossible-to-get-a-table dinner services, where diners eat solely from a special €50 prix fixe menu devised by the chef each evening. I suspect those may exhibit a little more personal flair and creativity from the chef. But we're not the kind of people who are willing to eat at a place where a table has to be reserved half a year in advance, so we may never experience that. read more