Le Comptoir. "The Counter." You may know it from such shows as No Reservations, in which Eric Ripert called it "the perfect bistro." As Anthony Bourdain would say, the food is good. Damn good.
It's five-star food for five-star price points, and if you can forgive the mediocre service, it's a steal of a meal. First, some background.
Oft noted as one of the hardest reservations to get in all of Paris, that applies only to the prix fixe dinner service on weekdays. My understanding is that menu is a set, no-choice dinner for an insanely reasonable cost--somewhere around 50 Euro. Breakfast, I believe, is reserved for hotel patrons only. At all other times, seating is first come, No reservations needed, or accepted.
Armed with this knowledge, we went sometime after 2pm to avoid the lunch crowd and faced a small line and a short wait--about 15 minutes. Around 4 to 5 pm, when we left, the line was nonexistent. Le Comptoir is small (though not nearly as minute as next door wine bar L'Avant Comptoir). You sit practically arm to arm with your neighbor, whether it's fellow diner or foreign patron. Outdoor seating comes highly recommended. Even in December, the heaters blared fine and the ambiance is top-notch.
The brasserie menu is daunting. Page after page; first the wines; then the food. If you're not fluent in French, bring the translation book. You'll need it. We forgot it, and thus had to get by on my mediocre French.
Portions are huge. Massive. The very reasonable prices belie just how filling dishes turned out to be. For example, I knew we wanted to start with Oeufs Mayonnaise (discussed on the show). It priced at approx 5 Euro, so I thought it'd be two pieces, something small. We placed two orders. Turned out to be five pieces per plate, doused in delicious devilishness. One plate alone could've constituted a meal. Still, fantastic.
Consequently, our "let's order small plates" idea turned out to be tragically mistaken and deliciously filling. In any case, the menu had its full share of "classic" French dishes. My eyes knowing those terms, and our stomachs yearning for great French food, we went down that path.
Foie gras. Rich. Melt in your mouth good. Atop crispy toast slathered in butter, to a gluttony of excess. Escargot. Beautiful pesto butter garlic sauce. Both easily the best I've had.
As we waited for our entree round, we eyed the table next to us. Thank the maker for the two Frenchmen that started with an amazing-looking bone marrow (os a moelle). Seriously, check the picture. I don't often brag about my foodie pictures, but that one is simply stellar. We pointed at that to our waitress. She obliged. Succulent bone marrow, drenched in its own juices. It came draped with caviar, complemented with roasted chestnuts. It was unreal. And arguably the best thing I ate the entire trip.
By that point, we were stuffed, and had yet to sample the plats we ordered. It seemed almost criminal to indulge more, but that we did. The beef cheeks "en daube", akin to beef bourguignon (one of my favorite French dishes), was a wonderfully delightful stew. The macaroni pasta was a nice touch. And one of Le Comptoir's signature dishes, the Cochon au Lait, was so divine it made me rethink my stance of generally avoiding pork.
In retrospect, perhaps the wife had a good idea. Not a beef/pork eater, she went with a couple light chicken dishes. First came a play on Poule Au Pot, with the homey appetizer wrapped spring roll style. That was followed by a very refreshing chicken salad heavy on haricots verts and splashed with a fine vinaigrette.
But if you're going to eat at Le Comptoir, I cannot stress this enough: Go. All. Out. I only wish that I had known how to read more of the menu. The aforementioned Frenchmen went with two pieces of amazing, simplistic, drool-worthy strip steak. And the cheese! We were too stuffed for cheese. Oh, the humanity!
Even so, it was my favorite dining experience in Paris and one of the best meals I've ever had. Mr. Ripert, you were right. And Mr. Camdeborde, I salute you. read more