I was lucky enough to have mentioned to a friend that I would be in Paris on vacation. I use the term "lucky" because if I hadn't said something I wouldn't have known about La Cordonnerie and that would have been a shame.
Even though there's an email address Chef Hugo doesn't accept reservations by email. You have to call...and call. I tried for a week a month in advance and finally got through and was able to make my rez for our final evening in Paris.
We arrived precisely on time and despite the fact that we had never met Chef Hugo he greeted us by name and had his nephew Jeremy seat us in the kitchen---literally. At first I felt slighted but once we sat down and realized what a treat it was to be at one of the two kitchen tables we knew that it was an honor, not a slight.
The restaurant is small---it only seats 18---and Chef Hugo solos in the kitchen while Jeremy tends to the bread, beverages and service but what it lacks in spaciousness and bustling service it makes up for in fabulous food at a fabulous price with an extremely personal touch---something we found lacking in the cafes of Paris.
Most of the reviews I had read focused on a chicken dish that people raved about so you can imagine my disappointment when it was missing from the menu, presumably replaced by something Chef Hugo may have seen at the market that morning. The menu is fairly simple with a couple of specials and four or five other regular or semi-regular dishes. We opted for a couple of rib eyes in a white wine and shallot sauce, a pork shoulder and a nice piece of cod just to try and sample the menu a bit. Once the orders were in we all turned to watch the show.
Chef Hugo was a perpetual motion machine and reminded me of the plate spinners from the old Ed Sullivan show as he tended to ten or twelve things at once. One second he was chopping vegetables, the next he was slicing off slabs of pork, all the while spinning to shake a pan here, season a pot there, pull a skillet off the burner and place it on a high shelf to finish cooking or stir any number of sauce pans that were all going at once. He'd grab a steak from a sizzling skillet using his bare hands, flip it over, sprinkle some salt on it then pick up a handful of butter and toss it into another pan. Yes, I said a handful because who has time for utensils when you're single-handedly cooking 18 different dishes almost at the same time? And yes, the occasional lid went flying and clattered to the ground but always got washed or, rather, quickly rinsed off. As he'd finish an unusual dish he would brush his sweat soaked hair from his brow, come around the counter unsolicited, show it to us and explain the ingredients, most notably the crayfish salad and a pear mousse fraise on top of strawberries and raspberries.
But we came for the food, not the floor show, and weren't disappointed. The steaks were thin, tender, tasty and finished with a mountain of perfect frites. The pork shoulder was so tender that you could cut it with a finger and came with sautéed onions and what we think were cheesy mashed potatoes (although they could have been sweet pureed cauliflower). The sautéed cod was flakey, delicate and delicious and Jeremy was always there with a fresh basket of bread when we ran out. If anything was lacking it was the asparagus that had a bit too much snap to it...... although that could be a French thing.
For dessert we opted for a banana rum flambee, a warm chocolate mousse on a thin chilled shortbread and the pear mousse fraise all of which were good but the fraise stood out with its unique taste and the delicate consistency of a bowl of slightly chilled clouds over fresh berries.
The shocker was the bill---for all the right reasons. $136 for dinner for four (plus $45 for a nice bottle of wine) with a variety of desserts, an amazing kitchen display and a visit from Chef Hugo's dog, Blix. Take that La Tour d'Argent!!! read more