I recently polled my Facebook friends for recommendations in Chinatown, and to be perfectly honest, took the advice of a Chinese American friend, reasoning he should know better than a bunch of white people. So I found myself at Ken Kee, which made his top four.
While I can't really speak to the authenticity of Ken Kee--I've never been to China--the dining room was full of Chinese families, which I take as a good sign. Another friend said this was "Hong Kong" style Chinese, but how whould I know? What I can say for sure is that the food was lightening quick, abundant, and satisfying.
The menu is extensive--and I mean *extensive*! It comes in two parts: first a photo gallery of all the food, then a price list of dishes, most of which are very reasonable if not downright cheap. Either look at their website and figure out what you want before you go, or plan to spend 5-10 minutes agonizing over your innumerable choices before you conclude you have to come back ten more times to try all the stuff you skipped.
I tend to crave tangy/acidic flavors, so we started with hot and sour soup, which was easily one of the best I've tried. It was absolutely loaded with shrimp, chicken, pork, tofu, mushrooms, and more. A cup makes a generous appetizer, while a bowl could easily serve as a satisfying meal.
The egg rolls, served with a sweet, complex sauce, were also terrific--much better than others I've had in Chicago, perhaps with the exception of Friendship Chinese in Logan Square.
For entrees, I wish I'd ordered more adventurously (duck tongues, duck chins, goose intestines, and other offal appeared variously on the menu), but on this day my dining companion and I both really wanted noodles. I ordered Fried Rice Noodle with Beef and Soy Sauce, and my companion chose the Vermicelli with Pork and Shrimp.
The Fried Rice Noodles featured wider noodles, a nice, light, slightly smoky flavored sauce, and meltingly tender beef. It also featured an unfortunate profusion of scallions--just too many for my taste. This isn't a problem with the dish--it's perfectly composed--I just don't like scallions THAT much. I'd rather have had shreds of some other green vegetable--even plain green cabbage would have worked for me. The vermicelli, which had lots of nice shrimp, also featured a lot of scallions.
In both cases the noodles were perfectly cooked, and the dishes were abundant--perhaps overly so--in portion size. Also in both cases, aside from the scallions, there were not a lot of fresh vegetables involved. I found my mouth watering as I watched the servers take huge plates of perfectly brilliant greens to other tables--I wished we'd ordered the Baby Pea Tips--they looked amazing.
My advice if dining with only one other person is to choose one meat (or tofu/fish) dish, and one all-vegetable dish, and share both. This way you'll get a more balanced meal, and the portions are so ample you won't leave hungry.
The restaurant was spotlessly clean, and well-lit, with lots of windows. The service was fast and efficient, but be mindful that they won't rush you out the door with your check at the end--you may need to ask for it. The bathroom was clean, spacious, fresh-smelling, and well supplied.
Ken Kee is certainly on my short-list for Chinatown. read more