We are long-time Kali fans and neighbors, so we were happy to be in attendance on the first night of Kali 2.0. The restaurant had been closed since January for an extensive renovation, and it reopened on July 18 with a totally different concept. Instead of the fancy tasting menu restaurant that earned and maintained a Michelin star, it is now being billed as a Hollywood steakhouse. I loved the old Kali, so I can't say this was an improvement, but I was overall pretty pleased with our dinner.
There were a few things I thought could be better, many of which I expect to work themselves out over the first weeks of service. Most notably, I found the space and atmosphere somewhat lacking. Kali just didn't have the same budget as, say, The Benjamin, and it wasn't quite achieving that dark classic steakhouse vibe. Old Kali was bright and cheerful, not lavishly designed but with white walls and windows that let in a lot of light. I felt like New Kali was fighting those positive attributes, with dark furniture, dark carpeting, dark walls and dark window covers, all of which were still bathed in enough early evening L.A. sunlight to make them look drab. I hope the walls have at least been decorated since our visit.
Service was a little bumpy, but not in a way that bothered me on what was essentially an opening night. Everyone seemed very friendly and eager to do a good job. We ordered a bottle of wine that couldn't be located, but the replacement recommended by the sommelier was both great and significantly cheaper. The one weird thing was that no one seemed to know what the "Kali steak sauce" was off the top of their heads, but I'm sure they've figured it out by now.
The food was excellent, with one minor miss: the Parker House rolls were kind of dense and bland, though they did come with some nice rosemary butter and sea salt. The other starter we got was the jumbo shrimp, and this was just right. Three plump, juicy shrimp served on ice with cocktail sauce and a wedge of lemon.
We got Mama Leone's rigatoni and the 16 oz. ribeye for our entrees, and I wouldn't have minded having these coursed out separately, as this was a lot of food to get through while it was all still warm. The rigatoni was tasty and comforting, with marinara sauce, ricotta cheese, and fried basil. Not quite a landmark pasta, but we certainly enjoyed it. The steak, on the other hand, was outstanding. Tender and juicy with a handsome crust, served with roasted garlic and lemon, rosemary, flaky salt, and a dab of a strong, flavorful sauce that tasted like black garlic and other good things. We did also spring for the Kali steak sauce, which was a great, vinegary sauce in the A1 genre. We ordered two sides, the skinny fries and the Brentwood corn, and both were fantastic.
I was relieved to see Kali's iconic meringue gelato on the dessert menu. They didn't shave the cured egg yolk this time, but I hope they retain that bit of theater, even if it is a bit Kali 1.0. The gelato was as light and lovely as ever, finished with that sweet and salty sprinkle of yellow yolk. We also got the key lime pie, which was classic and satisfying.
This wasn't a perfect dinner, but we thoroughly enjoyed ourselves and hope Kali sticks around for many more years to come. We plan to be back soon and look forward to our next delicious steak. read more