Evelyn Rose: A Restaurant Worth Celebrating
A few years ago,…read morefriends introduced us to Evelyn Rose in Vienna, and we've been grateful ever since. We've made the trek from Arlington several times, and the restaurant has accomplished something increasingly rare: it has never given us a reason to regret the drive.
For years, Clarity occupied a special place on our restaurant list: excellent food, impeccable service, and prices that didn't require a second mortgage. Evelyn Rose has gradually assumed that role. It's become a restaurant where we arrive with high expectations and leave feeling they've been justified.
Our latest visit was another celebration. October is particularly busy in our household, with my wife's birthday and two of our three wedding anniversaries. Yes, three. To each other. Long story, best discussed over cocktails.
We'd already celebrated with a European tour accompanied by 30 friends. This time, we wanted something more relaxed. No grand production, just an excellent dinner together.
We arrived early, and the hostess found us two seats at the bar for drinks and appetizers. It was a thoughtful beginning, the sort of hospitality that makes guests feel genuinely welcome rather than merely accommodated.
Sarah ordered a Toasted Sesame Old Fashioned featuring yuzu, which she loves, and the Squash Tamale. She's equally fond of squash, although under other circumstances she'd probably prefer tennis. I chose a Godfather, partly because I enjoy them and partly because I'm old enough to order one without irony.
My appetizer was one of the best Caesar salads I've had in years. This wasn't one of those timid salads where the kitchen seems vaguely embarrassed by anchovies. It had a kale base, plenty of cheese, flavorful croutons, and, best of all, a generous supply of whole salt-cured anchovies.
I realize anchovies are divisive. For some diners, they're a reason to send a salad back. For me, their absence is often a reason not to order one. Evelyn Rose understands that a Caesar salad should have personality. This one certainly did.
Just as we finished, the hostess appeared to escort us to our table, precisely at our reservation time. No waiting, no interruption, no wondering whether we'd been forgotten. The transition was seamless, another example of excellent service being most noticeable when you don't have to think about it.
For dinner, Sarah ordered the Bison Shoulder, I chose the burger, and we shared Beef-Fat Fries. Not every celebratory dinner requires an elaborate tasting menu. Sometimes you simply want something delicious.
The bison was flavorful and, thanks to its sauce, exceptionally rich. Sarah thoroughly enjoyed it, although its richness eventually got the better of her appetite.
My burger was, as always, very good. Evelyn Rose understands balance, particularly in its choice of cheddar, which complements rather than overwhelms the beef. Some restaurants pile on so many ingredients that the burger becomes almost incidental. Thankfully, Evelyn Rose resists that temptation.
My only complaint? There could have been more burger in the burger. Then again, that's probably my general philosophy on hamburgers.
Despite my desire for more beef, neither of us could finish our meals. We packed up roughly half of each entrée, happily anticipating a second excellent meal at home.
For Sarah's birthday, the restaurant treated us to a complimentary ice cream sundae. A lovely gesture, although by then our enthusiasm had substantially exceeded our remaining capacity.
Remarkably, we took half the sundae home, too. It survived the trip to Arlington and now resides in our freezer, awaiting an opportunity when Sarah isn't looking.
But the evening offered one more memorable moment.
At the neighboring table sat a group of older diners, some perhaps even as old as we are. We noticed the extraordinary attention they received from staff and management. Clearly, something was going on.
After they departed, a waiter explained that one of them had been Evelyn herself. The Evelyn. Grandmother of one of the owners.
Well, that explained a few things.
There's something reassuring about discovering that the person whose name adorns a restaurant actually eats there. Being the owner's grandmother undoubtedly guarantees attentive service, but it doesn't guarantee food worth eating. Evelyn's presence struck me as a charming endorsement and a reminder that there's a real family behind the restaurant's name. (Actually two, Rose is the chef's grandmother... I wonder where she was eating?)
Evelyn Rose has earned a place among our Official Celebratory Restaurants, reserved for occasions when we want something special without going Full Michelin.
And considering how many anniversaries we celebrate, it's fortunate we've found somewhere we can count on.
Evelyn Rose isn't simply a restaurant we enjoy visiting anymore. It's become part of how we celebrate.