All I'd heard about Haru--Reno's brand-new Japanese bistro--was a promise of "real" ramen. They're still in their soft-open phase, but I couldn't wait. My group was pleasantly surprised by the inclusion of grilled delights and tasty rice bowls.
We started with yakitori, skewers and small plates of grilled meats ($5 each). They were each served with paired sauces, and takuan--a crisp, sweet and sour daikon pickle said to be invented by a famed 17th century, zen warrior monk. First, crispy bone-in chicken wing flats, seared and creamy chicken livers, and bunched-up chicken skin that was fatty, a little gelatinous, and reminiscent of pork cracklins. So far, so good.
Huge bacon-wrapped sea scallops were great, though I found the bacon a distraction to my favorite bivalve mollusk. Cubes of beef ribeye with a spicy chimichurri were medium rare and incredibly tender; the stuff meaty dreams are made of. Thin pieces of karaage (Japanese fried chicken) were surprisingly moist, served with plain kewpie (extra rich mayo) and a super fiery version. Korean galbi (beef short rib) was tender and succulent. A skewer of bacon-wrapped cherry tomatoes was great ($4), but I advise waiting a bit to allow the boiling hot centers to cool off before popping 'em in.
All ramen bowls include roasted pork belly, bean sprout, scallion, fish cake, nori, and ajitama; you can punch it up with provided seasonings. We ordered all varieties offered, including two with chicken/pork stock and enoki mushroom (Corn with miso tare, Haru with shoyu tare, $12 each), and two with pork stock and wood ear mushroom (Kuro with shio tare and black garlic oil, Tonkotsu with shoyu tare, $13 each).
Each broth had subtle differences owed to their tare flavor enhancers; all were rich and satisfying. The pork belly was tender, the veggies fine, and the noodles were definitely fresh and perfectly cooked. The nori (dried seaweed) is decoratively served on the side of the bowl. Some eat it crispy, but I let it soak in and add a hint of ocean spray. Ajitama (marinated soft boiled egg) is something I treasure, and I'm always disappointed when a plain, hard boiled egg is substituted. The creaminess and blend of flavors in good ajitama is transcendent, and Karu has it dialed in. I almost had a tear in my eye when a friend with an egg allergy offered me hers.
Of the four donburi (rice bowls), we tried katsudon ($12) with breaded pork cutlet in dashi (kelp and fish stock), shoyu (soy sauce), stir-fried onion, scallion, and egg; and unadon ($12), two large, skin-on filets of unagi (freshwater eel) grilled with a thick, hickory flavored sauce of shoyu, syrup, ground eel eggs, and mirin (sweet rice wine). The eel was melt-in-your-mouth amazing. The golden brown pork was moist-yet-crispy, the onion-egg mix a nice complement. Both came with piping hot miso soup and choice of sides; we sampled kimchi and pickled shiitake. The fermented cabbage was crisp and more savory than spicy. The 'shrooms were bliss in a bowl, with a similar pickling flavor as the takuan, leveled-up by the meaty, heady fungi.
Being so new, there were a few service missteps. Hot tea served tepid, quickly replaced very hot. Eggs ordered on the side that were in the bowl. One rice bowl forgotten, quickly delivered once mentioned. They plan to add more options including vegetarian, and I imagine I'll be back many, many times. read more