It worked out quite well for me that the last meal I had in Providence turned out to be one of the best, as I left the city with a real appreciation for what they're doing there food-wise, and a new level of respect I certainly would have never had prior to visiting. Gracie's encapsulated all the great flavors of the Northeast, along with some of the best service I experienced during my stay from the hostess Stephanie and my waiter Stephan. The ambiance of Gracie's is very beautifully chic (http://www.flickr.com/photos/wedoitforlove/4145529046/in/set-72157622901501162/) with a few Middle Eastern touches (once you make it past the strip clubs down the street), and my biggest regret was not coming earlier for dinner so I could get a glimpse of their rooftop garden in the daylight, as many of the dishes ingredients were sourced there.
There was no doubt for me I would be doing the tasting menu (7 courses for $85) here, it's one of the most reasonably priced I've ever seen, and looking back now at the quality I received I can say that even more-so than before. They also have a really great wine program, featuring 40 bottles under $40, making good wine accessible for almost anyone.
AB: Bean salad amuse w/ raspberry vinaigrette and bacon crumble - This was a pretty simple amuse bouche visually, but had a lot going on texturally and flavor wise. I really liked the raspberry paired with the bacon.
#1: Heirloom & cherry tomatoes, Narragansett ricotta cheese, capers and fresh fennel - Vegetarians of the world would rejoice if this little salad were on every menu across the country. The heirloom tomatoes (one of my favorite things) were magnificent, as was the expertly dosed usage of caper and fennel; a heavy hand with them would have totally ruined this dish.
#2: Potato gnocchi ratatouille w/ housemade bacon and shaved mandarone provola cheese: I absolutely loved the way the cheese formed on this dish, and I really want to try to emulate it someday at home. The texture of the gnocchi was perfect, but I was hoping for a little more than I got out of the bacon. It definitely played second fiddle to the other ingredients.
#3: Hudson Valley foie gras, toasted cashews, blueberry gastrique and cornbread brioche - I asked specifically to have this dish included in my menu, and happily they obliged. It did not disappoint, and I can say with confidence this was the best preparation of foie I've ever had, aided tremendously by the accompanying gastrique.
#4: Skate wing topped w/ peppers, corn & shiitake medley w/ corn emulsion, mini crab Rangoon w/ cream cheese & soy filling - So much was going on with this plate, but somehow it all melded together brilliantly. The "crab Rangoon" bit was a really nice homage, but the skate outshone it by a good bit. It was cooked to perfection, and fell apart on my fork before melting in my mouth. The emulsion did a great job of tying it all together while still remaining somewhat subtle compared to the power of the fish.
Intermezzo: frozen lemon sorbet w/ mandarin citrus zest - Meant to be emblematic of the famous Providence fixture Del's Lemonade, this palette cleanser rocked. It did exactly what it's designed to do, and actually made you enjoy it. The crunchy bits were a nice touch too.
#5: Washington state squab w/ roasted cippolini onions, lemon squash and eggplant, w/ squab jus - This came out so tender and tempting I completely dove in and starting destroying it before remembering to take a photo, woops. There isn't a huge variety of ingredients in this dish, but the ones that are there fuse together so seamlessly it really shows off the chef's talent.
#6: Landhomme cheese w/ toasted figs and cashews & root beer sauce - Typically I'm not a fan of the single slice cheese in the middle of the meal meant to act as a "course" (see my hatred for Coi in SF). This however, was actually dressed up quite a bit, and made it much easier to accept, especially once you had all the ingredients in unison.
#7: Passion fruit epoisse w/ passion fruit cream, raspberries and gooseberries - I haven't had gooseberries since I was a kid eating them off bushes in the wild. After having them straight out of the garden above me at Gracie's I remembered how much I miss this flavor. It's such a unique bitter+sweet flavor that you want them as a backdrop in almost anything. The epoisse itself was beautiful, and so light and creamy, and I was in love with the flavors of the passion fruit in and around it.
Petit-fours: Chocolate macarons, sugar cookies, and gum drops - This was a nice assortment of post dinner treats, especially the sugar cookies, one of my favorite childhood treats.
As you can see, 7 courses turned into 10, if you include the 3 free mini-samplings, a warm welcome to someone who dines out frequently. Gracie's food is also heaven for a photographer, and their playful use of flowers in many dishes is done so without sacrificing the integrity of the dish. read more