Not too long ago, I had the pleasure of visiting Cosima for the first time. I made 7pm dinner reservations to celebrate a friend's birthday but decided to wander over early to check out the space and indulge in a glass of wine. Cosima made an impression on me before I even walked in the door. To get to the restaurant, you basically have to cross the Atlantic and wander into a tiny Sicilian village. Well that's what it feels like anyway. The road down to Cosima is narrow, meandering and cobblestoned. White lights are strung from window to window and you can almost see the freshly washed laundry hanging on the line. I was in love before having even walked through the door and I hoped beyond hope that the food wouldn't disappoint.
I had arrived just in time for Happy Hour so I decided to sit at the bar and check out the offerings. Because I wasn't familiar with the wine selections, I placed my trust in the bartender who was not only extremely kind but extremely knowledgeable as well. He made a few recommendations and then offered me a taste of the two wines I was debating between. I ended up choosing his favorite and it quickly became my favorite as well. While waiting for my friends to arrive, I snacked on the spicy ceci ceci (fried chickpeas with spicy herb mix) and ended up devouring the whole bowl. Oops. I'm Armenian so I have very little self-control when it comes to chickpeas. The bar felt comfortable and inviting so I made myself at home, sipped on my wine and tried to be as discreet as possible when checking out the food arriving on either side of me. The folks on my right had ordered the whole roasted cauliflower and the folks on my left had ordered a pizza prepared in the beautiful wood burning stove. I was intrigued.
By the time my dinner companions arrived, I had basically memorized the menu and was ready to dig in. We decided to explore a few items on the Happy Hour menu as well as an entrée off the regular menu. We ordered the housemade giardiniera (pickled cauliflower, carrots, fennel, onions and peppers), the insalta di polpi (grilled baby octopus over a salad of potatoes, celery, red peppers, capers, lemon anchovy vinaigrette), the alici marinate (marinated anchiovies, spicy aioli, grilled bread), the caponata (Sicilian eggplant salad with panelle also known as chick pea fritter), and the pasta con sarde (sardines, raisins, pine nuts, fennel, tomatoes, breadcrumbs, bucatini). All in all, I found the food to be interesting and well-proportioned. Some of the dishes tasted a little too mild, a little too safe - the giardiniera and the caponata could have been kicked up a notch in the spice department and the pasta con sarde reminded me a little too much of the tuna pasta I made in college. But then there was the alici marinate and that was absolute perfection. The flavors were bright and bold and I savored every single bite. My dinner companions and I agreed that it was the most vibrant dish of the night.
Because we were celebrating a birthday, we had to round out our meal with dessert. Before we even had a chance to order, the bartender magically appeared with a flight of Amaro, an Italian digestif. I had been offered a flight of Amaro on a recent trip to the Garces Trading Company in Philly so I was familiar with the bittersweet, herbal liquor but my friends were not. The bartender did a really nice job of talking us through the different selections before inviting us to indulge. By the time we had wrapped up our flight, we were definitely ready for something sweet. Kris and I opted for the sfinci (Sicilian donuts drenched in cinnamon and sugar) and Amy opted for the gelato. We were very happy with the dessert and ended our meal feeling both satiated and satisfied.
Cosima might not have offered up a perfect meal, but what restaurant would one month into its grand opening. What it did offer up, though, is great ambiance, great service, and great potential. To this day, I have food dreams about the alici marinate. That single dish in all its flavor and simplicity encapsulates all that Cosima can be and, undoubtedly, will be, which is why, by the time I walked out the door, I was planning my own birthday dinner and I was planning to have it at Cosima. read more