Our friends treated us to dinner at Asta on Friday night, and because we are used to eating out together, we ordered...everything on the menu, basically, and a full pairing of wines. I don't really know how they figured out what to feed whom, since we ordered and shared a 3, 5, and 8 course meals and a 3 and 8 glass pairing. They were cheerful, friendly, flexible, and made sure we had a good time. Oh, and one of us was vegetarian, and she got her own set of plates. They were very good sports, and we appreciated that, as we passed each plate up and down the bar where we sat to watch them work, each of us tasting each plate.
The food was fun, tasty, and we definitely didn't leave hungry--in fact, we didn't leave with any room left at all. The style and presentation of the food reminded me of Journeyman in some ways--perhaps the Apprentice version, since they are still very new. The food was fresh, the flavors bright, and the sense of humor and whimsy added a dimension of surprise and delight that, for me, was the theme of the evening's meal.
We liked everything we tried, but we loved the mushroom soup--it was silky, with layers of mushroom flavor, and little crispy mushroom garnishes that left us wondering how exactly you crisp mushrooms. We were also intrigued with the "plate full of everything this farm grows," which included a fresh egg, pea sprouts, and "maple water". I wasn't sure if that was unboiled maple sap, or maple syrup diluted down, but it was really good--although I have never considered having sweet with eggs. The scallop was delicious, and rich enough that one was enough--though the pickled blueberries cut the richness, and made me decide that I need to pickle some blueberries this summer. As another reviewer mentioned, the farro cooked in beet juice was just beautiful--like pomegranate seeds indeed. I was delighted to find that something I thought was another one of the succulent baby beets was actually a dollop of intensely flavored beet foam, and the lamb was delicious--perfectly cooked, full of flavor.
The most fun dish, though, was one modeled on the beach after a storm--it really looked like something you might see while beachcombing after a storm, without the sand. There were seaweed noodles (why not, you put spinach in noodles, right) and caviar, tender seaweed, caviar that provided little pops of seawater, and fried dulse, which enlightened me as to why that particular seaweed is sold as a treat in Ireland.
The wine pairings, provided with lots of intelligent and well-informed commentary by the passionate sommelier in the really cool dress, added a whole additional layer to the meal. She explained that she tended to choose wines with a high level of acidity and minerality, but they varied widely aside from that. She was careful to explain that we didn't have to try each wine only with the plate it was technically paired with--she had wines that went equally well with several of the plates, and we enjoyed trying them that way. We found a new favorite in an Italian wine with a top note of rose--like the flower, not like pink wine--and I was very pleased with the twin glasses of a young Madeira and a Tokaji that reminded me that these very friends had brought us back a bottle from one of their trips years ago.
The variety of desserts were the perfect touch, again with a bit of surprise and humor. Did you ever think to cut a thin, thin slice of cake and toast it? Me neither, but it made a really fun garnish to the untoasted cake. We loved the long sliver of coconut cream pie, and the citrusy cake with the subtle rosemary foam (how fun is rosemary foam? really fun!) was light and delicious, though somewhat overpowered by the fact that we were passing around the other, more strongly flavored desserts. There was a little citrus plate in there somewhere that had every form of citrus I could think of, including grapefruit, Meyer Lemon (I think), blood orange, and lime, all segmented and perfectly ripe.
Other reviewers have commented on small portions and the fact that you don't get a plate with a hunk of meat surrounded by scoops of vegetables. There are plenty of places you can get that--even in the L'Espalier family, you can go to Sel de la Terre and get hearty country food, which I love too. This isn't that kind of restaurant. It's one where each dish is a creation, a little tasty work of art which has been thought through with the intention of surprising and delighting you. If you don't have the imagination or skill to come up with "after the storm", then come here, and pay for the years of education and skill and the artistry involved, and the chef and his team will bring it to you. You'll get to meet them and talk to them, and even, if you ask, find out why there's a painting of Zeus on the wallboard.
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