On our second day in Hawaii, Matt B. told me he wanted pizza for dinner. I consulted Yelp on my iPhone as we sat by the beach, and found Arancino. A cursory look told me it was an Italian/pizza restaurant with $$, 4 stars, 150 reviews. Good stats. We decided to check it out.
Yelp! We both know that a restaurant where almost all the pizzas are in the $20 range is not actually a $$ spot. It is definitely $$$. Someone fix that mistake. With tip, we dropped $150 to the dime on this $$ dinner. We weren't terribly unhappy about it, but only because we could afford to say, "Well fuck it, we're on vacation." I guess this is probably true for most of Arancino's customers, but still?
We also had our expectations adjusted when we arrived at the restaurant and got a look at the menu. We had called ahead and were seated quickly, but the maitre d' was stationed outside, surrounded by a waiting crowd. We had a chance to turn around when we saw the prices, but I was already hooked by the idea of uni pasta.
The place was friendly and busy, and as I had begun to suspect, entirely Japanese. There is a category of Italian restaurants in Japan that fits a certain pattern - classic Italianish decor (red and white checkered tablecloths, wall hangings alluding to some vague country idyll), extensive classic Italian menu with very occasional Japanese twists, and yet a totally undeniable Japanese ambiance that is only partially anchored in the Japanese staff. I'd never been to one of these places in the states until Arancino, but the atmosphere was instantly recognizable, and welcoming on its merits. Our waitress was an older Japanese woman who might well have been an owner, and she was helpful and friendly, even downright ebullient.
Our meal kicked off with a basket of warm rosemary focaccia with good olive oil and balsamic vinegar. We ordered a bottle of wine soon after we sat down. This was somewhat accidental. Our waitress came to take our order and I looked across the table as my boyfriend scanned the drink menu. I noticed that most of the wines were priced in the $20 range and was pleasantly surprised to the point where I said, in front of the waitress, "Oh, the wines are really well priced." My boyfriend gave me a look and passed me the menu, and by the time I figured out that the drink menu was organized in a numbered list, we were on the hook. We got a $48 bottle of Montepulciano. Not terrible, but cocktails and beer would have been a lot more cost-effective. Oops. At least the wine was good.
The most overpriced part of the meal was the $19 affetato misto, which Matt and I shared as an appetizer. This was a plate of Genoa salami, pistachio mortadella, and prosciutto, with small cubes of Grana Padano cheese, and green and Kalamata olives. The portions were tiny, with only a few small slices of each meat, and not enough cheese to qualify as more than a garnish. The quality was good, at least. The salami was well spiced, the prosciutto salty and silky. I often find mortadella weird and spongey, but this version was good. Still, $20+ for less than a fistful of meat is kind of bullshit.
Pastas were still expensive at $28 and $22 for the spaghetti ai ricci di mare and the linguine ai gamberetti, but they were worth the price. I loved the spaghetti ai ricci di mare - this was the signature uni pasta, with heaps of fresh sea urchin and a sweet garlic white wine cream sauce. It was spectacular. The pasta was cooked a lovely al dente, and the uni melded into the sauce, which then clung to the pasta, with excellent unity. The portion was substantial, but I inhaled the dish and would've eaten more. Matt's linguine (despite his clamoring, my weird-ass boyfriend never gets pizza when he decides he's in a more all-purpose Italian restaurant) was also a winner, served with black tiger shrimp and arugula in a homemade tomato sauce. The shrimp was fresh and snappy, and the wilted cooked arugula brought a nice green edge to the dish. The pasta was cooked to a tee, and the sauce was fantastic, hearty and acidic, with a great punch of garlic.
For dessert, we shared a glass of lemon gelato, which came with three scoops (but only one flavor allowed? whatever). It was a refreshing way to end the meal.
Arancino was expensive, sometimes needlessly so, but I was happy with our meal and secretly thrilled that it wasn't just a throwaway pizza joint. The uni pasta was worth the trip alone, and I'd recommend this place to anyone looking for casual upscale Italian. read more