This past weekend, my boyfriend & I really wanted to have a get-away for our anniversary; the goal was to stay in-state & create locale-based magic. We settled on staying at the 4Seasons &, on Saturday, I made reservations for Antico. I've tried many commercial & "unknown" Italian places all over the city; but Antico was a phenomenon all of its own.
Right away, peering into the dim haze of its structured yet small atmosphere, Antico seems a romantic dream, tucked away airily off the corner of Armitage & Leavitt. We had to wait a bit for our reservation, but were content to smoke outside while everything was put in order. While outside, a beautiful, kind woman came out to offer us drinks & reassurances about the time. It was handled so delicately, which we appreciated.
Once we were sat, we had a little spot nestled at the left corner of the floor by the bar. It was cozy & perfect for us. We were really eager to eat at that point, so when the bread came, we dove in with hungry fury--luckily Antico seems to have ascertained that a bountiful bread basket at the beginning leads a meal astray towards the end, so the bread situation was four mild slices of wonderful rosemary-focaccia. Paired with that incredible, slightly fruity olive oil, & we were already excited. The bread & olive oil quality really tell you all you need to know about a place.
Our waiter was Sean, & he only further enhanced our experience! With such a wonderful sense of humor & a true understanding of the food, my boyfriend & I felt his opinions were so well-informed as to completely influence our decisions for each course!
We each got the Traditional Four Course, which is $55 each & includes antipasti, primi (pastas), secondi (meat/entrees), & then dolce.
Antipasti: (1) Cuttlefish Fritti
(2) Capesante
The best Fritti we've Ever enjoyed; & that is a frequent choice of antipasti between he & I. The fish was soft, encase in its bed of crisp & fresh fried batter. The fish really tasted fresh, without suffering at the hands of a heavy batter. The sea scallops were delicious. Perfect. The edges were slightly fried, & where the cuttlefish were presented with a purposeful laziness, the scallops were placed gently at the center of the plate & made to soak up the sauce. Our waiter also passed on a bit of wisdom to soak the bread in the sauce the scallops came with--Genius, honestly. We were pretty much seduced at this point.
Primi: (1) Brown Butter & Sage Gnocchi
(2) Tagliatelle Bolognese
The Gnocchi came recommended once more from Sean, who was adamant about taking spoonfuls of the butter-fried, crisp sage leaves alongside the gnocchi itself. What a feast. The gnocchi were pillows of air. There was that initial crunch indicative of its pan-fried preparation, but after that moment, the dumpling just melts entirely on the tongue. With the leaf, which could be bitter raw but instead added a wonderful kick, it was never less than perfect.
Antico boasts that its pastas are all made in-house, & what a nice distinction to make, considering that the pasta itself was prepared, clearly, by someone who understands pasta innately. That is the mark of an excellent Italian chef. Pasta seems so minute-made easy, but comparatively, one must assume that an exceptional pasta dish takes careful cultivation. This is how I felt about the Tagliatelle Bolognese which had all the traditional aspects of mia nonna's bolognese but somehow, different, distinct. All of it, gone in minutes.
Secondi: (1) Rib Eye
(2) Amish Chicken, Roasted
The rib eye I was too full to steal bites of, but I did see that it came with a tower of bone marrow & a few slices of toasted bread. We ate the marrow on bread dunked in the sauce. As for the rib eye, well; most of it was reduced to a few small slices at the end, completely devoured with no regret!
I had the Amish chicken atop a bed of polenta & mixed greens. The mixed greens reminded me of rapini, with its bitter, garlic sting, though cooked to a degree of softness I prefer in my greens. The chicken came with white & dark meat, which was a wonderful perk. Layering my fork with the dark meat dripping in juice, the greens, & finally, the polenta, was the peak of savory experience I would have all weekend.
Dolce: (1) Nutmeg Vanilla Gelato with fruit
(2) Zeppole
The gelato was sweet, & had a true vanilla taste. With the warm strawberries, it could have tipped into an overt sweetness, but was rounded out by the nutmeg. We battled for bites until it was all gone.
& the Zeppole..I've had Zeppole since I was a girl. This was fresh out of the fryer, & despite not having any traditional filling, it didn't even need any! It was a perfect end to our evening, & we left about twenty minutes after closing because we got caught in good conversation with our skilled & personable waiter.
All in all, the service--the spot itself--the food: a true 5 stars.
We will be back again & again. :-) read more