Underwood Bar & Bistro in Graton, CA, is a culinary jewel nestled in the heart of Sonoma's wine country, a place where every detail conspires to create an unforgettable experience. My wife and I, though we don't partake in the libations, were utterly enchanted by this exquisite establishment, which feels like a love letter to timeless elegance and gastronomic artistry. From the moment we stepped inside, we were transported to a bygone era of San Francisco's storied supper clubs, where sophistication meets warmth in a setting that's as inviting as it is breathtaking.
The ambiance is nothing short of spectacular. The interior evokes the charm of a Parisian bistro fused with old-world San Francisco flair--think Tadich Grill meets a chic Left Bank café. Milk-glass pendant lights cast a soft, golden glow, reminiscent of a perpetual sunset, illuminating a nickel-topped bar that gleams like it was plucked from a 1920s saloon. Red vinyl banquettes and bentwood chairs frame zinc-inlaid tables, creating a cozy yet polished atmosphere that feels both intimate and grand. The bar, a focal point of the space, is a masterpiece of design, its bottle-lined shelves and expert craftsmanship making it a visual delight, even for non-drinkers like us. Outside, the dog-friendly patios, one with a bocce ball court, beckon for warm evenings, but we were too captivated by the indoor allure to venture out. It's a space that feels alive, buzzing with the energy of locals, winemakers, and travelers, yet never overwhelming--a perfect balance of rustic charm and urban finesse.
The menu, though concise, is a testament to Chef Mark Miller's genius, offering Mediterranean-inspired dishes with a touch of global flair that left us in awe. We began with the appetizers, and oh, what a start! The Chou-fleur, a cauliflower gratin, was a revelation--creamy, golden, and bursting with nutty, savory depth that made each bite feel like a warm embrace. The pomme frites, served crisp and perfectly seasoned, were a masterclass in simplicity, their golden crunch paired with a subtle aioli that elevated them to divine. These starters alone could have carried the meal, but Underwood had more in store.
My main course, the flat iron steak and frites, was nothing short of perfection. The steak, cooked to a flawless medium-rare, was tender and juicy, crowned with a decadent mushroom-shallot butter that melted into every fiber, harmonizing with the peppery arugula and a chipotle steak sauce that added just the right kick. The accompanying frites, as crisp as the appetizers, were a delightful echo of the earlier course, proving that Underwood's kitchen doesn't just cook--it performs. My wife, equally enchanted, raved about her dish, and we both marveled at how such a small menu could deliver such profound flavors. Every bite was a testament to the kitchen's commitment to quality, sourcing local ingredients that sing of Sonoma's terroir, paired beautifully with the region's famed Pinot Noirs and Chardonnays (or so we're told by the wine enthusiasts around us).
The service was impeccable--attentive yet unobtrusive, with a staff that exuded genuine warmth and knowledge. Our server anticipated our needs, offering insights into the menu's inspirations without a hint of pretension, making us feel like honored guests in a dear friend's home. Even the desserts, which we sampled on a whim, were sublime--a sorbet trio of green apple, mango, and raspberry, served with a buttery shortbread cookie that left us planning our next visit before we'd even left the table.
Underwood Bar & Bistro is more than a restaurant; it's a destination, a celebration of Sonoma's spirit wrapped in an ambiance that feels like a warm hug from history. My wife and I left with hearts full, already dreaming of our return to this culinary oasis in Graton's charming one-block downtown. For anyone seeking a meal that's as unforgettable as it is delicious, Underwood is a must--five stars barely do it justice. Book a table, arrive early to soak in the vibe, and let this gem steal your heart as it did ours. read more