3.5 stars
Ulivo had been on my list for a while, so, when my friend recommended it for our group dinner, I was looking forward to giving it a shot. The restaurant was an upscale rustic kitchen with wooden, farmhouse-style dining tables and walls decorated with antique cheese graters and cork screws. The staff and atmosphere were cozy and inviting.
We began our experience with crusty bread that seemed a bit stale. The toasted slices were served with a soupy lentil sauce that had a nice flavor. I ordered the Nothing to Declare cocktail, because I was thrilled to see that it included so many of my favorite components - mezcal (Siete Misterios), Aperol, Chinola Liqueur (passion fruit), spice, and pineapple, as well as Heering Cherry Liqueur, orgeat, and lemon juice. The magenta-colored beverage tasted like a smoky fruit punch, and I loved its uniqueness. We also shared two appetizers - meatballs and a fried burrata special. The meatballs were made from veal and were braised in a tomato sauce. The delicate spheres were delicious, as was the seasoned marinera. The meatballs were actually the highlight of my experience! The burrata special included a massive ball of the gooey cheese that had been deep-fried, topped with lean prosciutto, and served in that same heavenly marinera sauce. I was glad that the four of us shared this dish, as it would have been way too much for a single person! It was a very indulgent item, but I found it surprising that the cheesy center of the ball was cold, while the rest of the dish was warm.
Though I rarely order pasta in a restaurant, most of theirs were homemade, so I thought it would be the right choice on that occasion. I went with the Pappardelle with Braised Oxtail Ragú, after seeing so many positive reviews for it. Unfortunately, I found it just acceptable. I thought that sauce could have used more meat and definitely much more seasoning, like black pepper, red pepper flakes, garlic, etc. It was too one-note. One of my companions had ordered the same thing and agreed with my assessment. Another friend had selected the Malloreddus pasta (dried, not fresh) with a sweet and spicy sausage ragú, and he had felt the same about his under-seasoned dish. The fourth person in our group, however, really enjoyed her pizza, particularly the thin crust.
Even after all of that food, we each decided to order a dessert. My Chocolate Salami seemed dense when I was cutting it, but was remarkably light and cakey when I ate it. The chocolate slices were infused with crushed biscotti, rum, and coffee. The biscotti seemed more like ladyfingers, as they were very spongy. I really liked this fudgy dessert and found it much better than the Chocolate Pudding that my friends ordered, which tasted like the generic packaged version. I paired my treat with a decaf coffee, which was rich and delicious.
My friends and I finally wrapped up our meal, being one of the last two tables in the place. The staff kindly let us converse without rushing us out the door. Ulivo might not have surpassed my expectations, but it still made for a laidback and fun evening. read more